Conditioning shampoo composition and method of preparing and using the same

ABSTRACT

A conditioning shampoo composition comprising: (a) an anionic cleansing surfactant, such as an alkyl ether sulfate or an alkyl sulfate, like sodium lauryl ether sulfate or ammonium lauryl sulfate; (b) a water-insoluble conditioning agent, such as a silicone compound or a hydrocarbon compound, like a polydimethylsiloxane; (c) an emulsifying composition comprising (i) a polyhydric compound, such as a glycol, a triol or a polyol, and (ii) a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, such as a quaternary ammonium compound including a fatty amidoalkyl substituent, like a long chain alkamidopropyl quaternary ammonium chloride; and (d) a suspending agent, in (e) a suitable carrier, that effectively resists phase separation and that cleanses the hair and imparts improved wet stage and improved dry stage conditioning properties to the hair in a single application of the composition is disclosed.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a continuation of copending application Ser. No.07/869,536, filed on Apr. 15, 1992, now abandoned.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a conditioning shampoo composition, toits method of preparation and to a method of shampooing hair thatcleanses the hair and imparts improved wet stage and improved dry stageconditioning properties to hair in a single application of thecomposition. More particularly, the present invention is directed to aconditioning shampoo composition including: a) an anionic cleansingsurfactant, like an alkyl ether sulfate, such as sodium lauryl ethersulfate; b) a water-insoluble conditioning agent, such as a siliconecompound or a hydrocarbon compound, like a polydimethylsiloxane; c) anemulsifying composition comprising (i) a polyhydric compound, such as aglycol, a triol or a polyol, and (ii) a hydrophilic quaternary ammoniumcompound, such as a quaternary ammonium compound including a fattyamidoalkyl substituent; and d) a suspending agent, in e) a suitablecarrier. The composition is prepared by first forming a gel includingthe emulsifying composition and the water-insoluble conditioning agent;then admixing the gel with the anionic cleansing surfactant, thesuspending agent and the carrier. The conditioning shampoo compositioneffectively cleanses the hair and imparts improved wet stage and drystage conditioning properties to hair in a single application of thecomposition. Surprisingly, an aqueous conditioning shampoo compositionof the present invention, including cationic and anionic components anda water-insoluble component, effectively resists phase separation anddoes not exhibit an interaction between the cationic components and theanionic components in the composition. Therefore, the anioniccomponents, the cationic components and the water-insoluble componentare available to effectively cleanse the hair and to impart wet stageand dry stage conditioning properties to the hair.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Most individuals buy and use a hair shampoo for its cleansingproperties. In addition to clean hair, the consumer also desiressufficiently-conditioned hair that holds a present configuration.However, present-day hair shampoos generally are formulated withhighly-effective synthetic surfactants, like anionic surfactants, thatprimarily clean, as opposed to conditioning, the hair. Therefore, it isnot surprising that hair shampoos usually neither help detangle wet hairnor impart any residual hair conditioning benefits to dry hair, such asthe manageability or styleability of hair sets.

Consequently, after shampooing, the hair normally is left in acosmetically-unsatisfactory state because an anionic surfactant-basedhair shampoo composition not only removes all of the dirt and soil fromthe hair, but also removes essentially all of the sebum that isnaturally present on the surface of the hair fibers. Therefore, theproperties of anionic surfactants that effectively cleanse the hair alsoserve to leave the hair in a cosmetically-unsatisfactory condition. Ingeneral therefore, shampooing the hair with a hair shampoo compositionincluding anionic surfactants, or nonionic surfactants or amphotericsurfactants, leave the hair, after rinsing with water, with anundesirable harsh, dull and dry touch or feel, usually called "creak".

As a result, thoroughly cleansed hair, in either the wet or dry stage,is extremely difficult to comb because the individual hair fibers tendto snarl, kink and interlock with each other. In addition, incompletelydried hair, such as hair dried with a towel, has poor brushingproperties. Then, after complete drying, the hair does not set well, andthe combing or brushing property of the dried hair remains poor. Thedried hair also has undesirable electrostatic properties in a lowhumidity atmosphere that cause the hair to "fly away", thereby furtherreducing the brushing property of the hair. The unsatisfactory combingor brushing property of freshly-shampooed hair also causes hair damage,such as split ends or hair breakage. In addition, the natural luster andresiliency of the hair is reduced.

Accordingly, freshly-shampooed hair usually requires a post-shampoo hairtreatment with a conditioning composition to improve the unsatisfactoryphysical and cosmetic condition of the hair. A conditioning compositionnormally is applied separately from the hair shampoo, and usually is arinse or a cream-like lotion containing a cationic compound. Therefore,investigators have sought hair shampoo compositions that both cleansethe hair and leave the hair in a cosmetically-satisfactory state, suchthat the subsequent treatment with a conditioner composition can beavoided.

Consequently, investigations were directed to providing a compositionthat behaves both as a shampoo and as a hair conditioner. However, theresulting shampoo-conditioner compositions possessed severaldisadvantages. For example, it is known that anionic surfactants aresuitable hair cleansers, and that, in many instances, cationicsurfactants and cationic polymers are suitable hair conditioners.However, the major difficulty encountered by investigators is theinherent incompatibility between an anionic surfactant and a cationicsurfactant or cationic polymer. Consequently, contact between theanionic surfactant and the cationic surfactant or cationic polymereither produces an intractable precipitate that forms immediately, orcauses an interaction between the anionic and cationic components thatsignificantly reduces their respective cleansing and conditioningproperties. The reduction in cleansing and conditioning effectivenessalso is observed in compositions wherein the anionic and cationiccomponents do not precipitate from the composition but remain insolution or in a suspended state. This incompatibility between ananionic compound and a cationic compound is well recognized by workersskilled in the art. For example, Sagarin in Cosmetics, IntersciencePublishers, Inc., New York, p. 538, 1957, states that anionic andcationic compounds cannot be used in combination because they react toform insoluble salts. Thus, in practice, consumer needs traditionallyhave been met by applying a nonsubstantive, anionic surfactant-basedshampoo to the hair to cleanse the hair, then rinsing the hair, followedby applying a conditioner composition including a substantive cationiccompound to the hair to condition the hair.

While numerous shampoos including a substantive cationic hairconditioner have been disclosed, such shampoos have not been totallysatisfactory because of the compatibility problems between anioniccleansing surfactants and cationic conditioning compounds. Thiscompatibility problem has caused workers in the field to examine othersurfactants such as nonionics, amphoterics and zwitterionics as a totalor partial replacement for the anionic cleansing surfactant. Many ofthese efforts are reflected in patents issued in the shampoo conditionerarea. See for example U.S. Pat. No. 3,990,991 to Gerstein; U.S. Pat. No.2,950,255 to Goff; U.S. Pat. No. 3,816,616 to Anguillo, et al.; U.S.Pat. No. 4,061,602 to Oberstar et al.; U.S. Pat. No. 4,273,760 toKoehler et al.; U.S. Pat. No. 4,247,538 to Barker; U.S. Pat. No.4,479,893 to Hirota et al. and U.S. Pat. No. 3,822,312 to Sato. However,the nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are inferiorcleansing surfactants compared to the anionic surfactants.

To avoid the anionic-cationic compatibility problems inherent in aconditioning shampoo that includes an anionic cleansing surfactant and acationic conditioning compound, to increase the degree of conditioningimparted to the hair, and to maintain the cleansing efficiency of thehair shampoo, investigators sought other classes of compounds that weresubstantive to the hair and that imparted improved conditioningproperties to the hair. These compounds usually are water-insolublecompounds and are nonionic in character. Exemplary compounds include thesilicone conditioning agents, the hydrocarbon conditioning agents andthe fatty alcohols including from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms.However, although these compounds avoided the anionic-cationiccompatibility problems, these compounds presented the problems offormulating a stable composition that resisted phase separation over thenormal life of the product, that effectively delivered the conditioningagent to shampooed hair, and that generated a sufficient foam level forconsumer acceptance.

Shampoo-conditioner compositions including silicones have been disclosedin several patents, including U.S. Pat. No. 2,826,551 to Green; U.S.Pat. No. 3,964,500 to Drakoff; U.S. Pat. No. 4,364,837 to Pader; BritishPat. No. 849,433 to Woolston; U.S. Pat. No. 4,741,855 to Grote, et al.;U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,788,006 and 4,902,499 to Bolich, Jr. et al. and U.S.Pat. No. 4,704,272 to Oh et al.

A particularly difficult problem encountered in silicone-containingconditioning shampoos is maintaining a dispersed, insoluble siliconematerial suspended in stable form, while retaining the cleansing andconditioning performance of the conditioning shampoo product. A varietyof materials have been proposed for inclusion in silicone-containingconditioning shampoos for purposes of thickening and stabilization suchas xanthan gum, long chain acyl derivatives, long chain amide oxides,and long chain alkanolamides, as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,788,006;4,704,272; and 4,741,855.

In addition, some investigators sought to provide a conditioning shampoocomposition that included an anionic cleansing surfactant, a cationicconditioning compound and a nonionic, water-insoluble conditioningagent. Such a composition is advantageous because the two types ofconditioning compounds impart different conditioning properties toshampooed hair. However, the investigators were faced with severalproblems including the anionic-cationic compatibility problem, theproblem of dispersing and suspending a water-insoluble conditioningagent, and the problem of providing a phase stable composition thatgenerated an acceptable foam level. Until the composition and method ofthe present invention, investigators have not been entirely successfulin providing such an advantageous conditioning shampoo.

For example, U.S. Pat. No. 3,993,744 to Cella et al. discloses thatcationic compounds, such as quaternary ammonium compounds, and siliconescan be combined with perfluorinated compounds to provide hair treatmentcompositions. The silicones specifically disclosed by Cella et al. aresurfactant-like polyoxyethylene polymethylsiloxanes that are apparentlywater-soluble or dispersible. According to Cella et al., both thequaternary ammonium compounds and the silicones are utilized inrelatively small amounts, e.g., about 0.05 weight percent of thecomposition. In addition, the compositions, disclosed by Cella et al.are conditioning compositions that do not include an anionic cleansingsurfactant, therefore the cationic-anionic interactions are not present.Several other patents, for example, Bolich et al. U.S. Pat. No.4,374,825, disclose a combination of a quaternary ammonium compound anda water-insoluble conditioning agent, e.g., a silicone compound, butsuch compositions do not include an anionic cleansing surfactant.

Therefore, because hair shampoo compositions are predominantly anionicin character, the incorporation of a substantive cationic compound intoan anionic shampoo composition is difficult because of the inherentincompatibility between anionic and cationic surfactants. Similarly, theincorporation of a water-insoluble conditioning agent into an anionicshampoo composition is difficult because of the inherent phaseinstability between the aqueous-based shampoo and the water-insolubleconditioning agent. Nevertheless, a conditioning shampoo composition isdesirable because of the convenience such a combination product offersto the consumer. In such a conditioning shampoo composition, the anionicsurfactant acts to rid the hair and scalp of dirt, surface film, debris,and the like, while the cationic compound or the water-insolubleconditioning compound deposits on the hair to provide conditioningbenefits, such as manageability, shine and texture.

Until the composition and method of the present invention, it has provenvery difficult to provide a stable hair conditioning shampoo compositionbecause of the inherent chemical incompatibility between cationic andanionic surfactants, and because of the phase instability of an aqueouscomposition including a water-insoluble conditioning agent. Inaccordance with an important feature of the present invention, aparticular class of quaternary ammonium conditioning compounds and awater-insoluble conditioning agent are incorporated into a conditioningshampoo composition wherein an interaction between the anionic andcationic components of the composition is essentially precluded, whereinthe composition effectively resists phase separation, and wherein boththe cationic and the water-insoluble conditioning agents are effectivelydeposited on the shampooed hair. The conditioning shampoo, includingboth a cationic conditioning surfactant and a water-insoluble nonionicconditioning agent, therefore is utilized to clean the hair and,essentially simultaneously, to impart conditioning properties to thehair.

In accordance with an important feature of the present invention, thecationic conditioning compound, e.g., a hydrophilic quaternary ammoniumcompound, is present not only to condition the hair, but also to act, inconjunction with the polyhydric compound, as an emulsifying compositionto emulsify the water-insoluble conditioning agent. Furthermore, it hasbeen found that a phase stable conditioning shampoo is provided by themethod of preparing the conditioning shampoo of the present invention.In particular, by first preparing a gel including the hydrophilicquaternary ammonium compound, the polyhydric compound and thewater-insoluble conditioning agent, followed by admixing the anhydrousgel with an aqueous solution of the anionic cleansing surfactant and thesuspending agent, a stable emulsion that resists phase separation andthat exhibits essentially no adverse interaction between the anionic andcationic components of the composition is provided.

Other investigators have disclosed using a preblended gel to incorporatea water-insoluble compound into an aqueous emulsion. For example, Yamadaet al., in U.S. Pat. No. 4,379,755, disclose a gel composition,including a hydrophilic sucrose fatty acid ester, a polyhydric alcoholand an oil, that provides a phase stable emulsion after dilution withwater. Yamada et al. teach the emulsification of a water-insolublecompound utilizing a blend of a nonionic sucrose fatty acid ester and apolyhydric alcohol. Yamada et al. do not teach or suggest solubilizing awater-insoluble compound in a blend of a cationic hydrophilic quaternaryammonium compound and a polyhydric alcohol, then diluting the preblendedgel with an aqueous solution of a suspending agent and anionic cleansingsurfactant to provide an emulsified composition that effectively resistsphase separation and that exhibits essentially no interaction betweenthe cationic and the anionic components of the composition.

The need for an effective and stable conditioning shampoo compositionthat cleanses the hair and conditions the hair, i.e., renders the hairmore manageable, in a single hair treatment has long been recognized inthe art. Accordingly, although conditioning compositions for applicationto previously-shampooed hair are well known, only recently haveconditioning shampoo compositions become available. For example, someconditioning shampoo compositions are specially formulated for mildness,and accordingly low detergency, in order to leave a portion of thenatural oils on the hair shaft. However, hair treated with this type ofcomposition becomes greasy, dirty looking and dirty feeling relativelyquickly.

Another difficulty encountered in preparing this type of conditioningshampoo composition has been achieving a stable composition withoutdestroying the delicate balance of conditioning, cleansing, consumerappeal, esthetic properties and other functional properties.Surprisingly and unexpectedly, although the compositions of the presentinvention include both a cationic conditioning compound and a nonionicwater-insoluble conditioning agent compound, e.g., a silicone orhydrocarbon, the composition is sufficiently phase stable, latherssufficiently, cleanses the hair and imparts conditioning properties tothe hair without a greasy feeling, while maintaining excellent physicaland esthetic properties for consumer appeal.

Therefore, the present invention relates to a conditioning shampoocomposition for cleansing the hair and for imparting improved physicaland cosmetic properties to the hair, such as improved combingproperties, luster and manageability. It is known that anionicsurfactants are suitable for shampooing the hair, and that cationicsurfactants and certain water-insoluble nonionic compounds are usefulfor conditioning the hair. In addition, combining an anionic surfactant,a cationic surfactant and a nonionic water-insoluble conditioning agentin a conditioning composition has proven difficult because of theinherent chemical incompatibility between the anionic and cationicclasses of surfactants and the phase instability resulting from thewater-insoluble conditioning compound. In accordance with an importantfeature of the present invention, it has been found that anionicsurfactants can be combined with a cationic conditioning compound and awater-insoluble nonionic conditioning agent, like a silicone or ahydrocarbon conditioning compound, to provide a stable and effectiveconditioning shampoo composition. As manufactured, the composition ismetastable, wherein the term "metastable composition" is defined as acomposition that is sufficiently stable to resist phase separationduring storage and essentially precludes an interaction between thecationic and anionic components of the composition; but, uponapplication to the hair, deposits a substantial amount of the cationicand water-insoluble conditioning components onto the hair shaft thatwithstand rinsing from the hair during the shampooing and rinsingprocess, and that impart conditioning properties to the hair.

Accordingly, the present invention is directed to a conditioning shampoocomposition, including a nonsubstantive and high-foaming anioniccleansing surfactant and a combination of a cationic and a nonionicwater-insoluble hair conditioning component, that simultaneouslycleanses the hair and imparts desirable physical and cosmetic propertiesto the hair. After shampooing the hair with the conditioning shampoocomposition of the present invention, the hair is combed easily when wetand the hair possesses satisfactory cosmetic properties when dry,including, in particular, elasticity, body, sheen and manageability. Incontrast to the prior art, wherein cationic conditioning compounds wereblended primarily with amphoteric surfactants, the conditioning shampoocomposition of the present invention includes a cationic conditioningcompound, a nonionic water insoluble conditioning agent and an anionicsurfactant to cleanse the hair. Surprisingly, the particular class ofcationic conditioning compounds utilized in the present invention, inconjunction with the polyhydric compound, also effectively emulsifiesthe water-insoluble conditioning agent, thereby precluding phaseseparation, and in addition, is compatible with the anionic cleansingsurfactant. Therefore, the stability and incompatibility problemsnormally encountered when a cationic surfactant, a water-insolubleconditioning agent and anionic surfactant are present in the sameaqueous composition have been overcome.

The need for stable shampoo compositions that also condition the hair,e.g., renders the hair more manageable, has long been recognized in theart. The present invention is directed to such a stable conditioningshampoo composition, wherein the aqueous composition includes an anioniccleansing surfactant; a water-insoluble hair conditioning agent, like asilicone compound or a hydrocarbon compound; an emulsifying compositioncomprising a polyhydric compound and a hydrophilic quaternary ammoniumcompound; and a suspending agent, wherein the conditioning shampoocomposition effectively resists phase separation, effectively resists aninteraction between the anionic and cationic components of thecomposition, and effectively delivers the quaternary ammonium compoundand the water-insoluble conditioning agent to the hair.

A composition of the present invention is sufficiently stable to resistphase separation and to resist a cationic-anionic interaction eventhough an anionic surfactant, a quaternary ammonium compound and awater-insoluble conditioning agent are present in the composition.Furthermore, the composition demonstrates an excellent ability todeposit the conditioning agents on the hair because the emulsifiedwater-insoluble conditioning agent is present in the composition in aparticle size that is sufficiently large to deposit on the hair, yet issufficiently small to resist phase separation. Therefore, and inaccordance with the present invention, the hair is cleansed and,essentially simultaneously, hair conditioning properties are imparted tothe hair by a method of contacting the hair with an aqueous compositioncomprising an anionic cleansing surfactant, a water-insolubleconditioning agent, an emulsifying composition including a polyhydriccompound and a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, and asuspending agent. The stable composition is provided both by theingredients included in the composition and by the method of preparingthe composition. The composition of the present invention both cleansesthe hair and conditions the hair to provide more manageable andesthetically-pleasing hair in a single application of theshampoo-conditioning composition to the hair.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In brief, the present invention relates to a conditioning shampoocomposition, a method of preparing the composition and a method ofshampooing and conditioning hair. More particularly, the presentinvention relates to a method of shampooing the hair, whereby the hairis cleansed and conditioned, essentially simultaneously, by contactingthe hair with a composition comprising an anionic cleansing surfactant,a water-insoluble conditioning compound, an emulsifying compositionincluding a polyhydric compound and a hydrophilic quaternary ammoniumcompound, and a suspending agent in a suitable carrier. Optionally, anamphoteric surfactant, like a betaine or a hydroxysultaine, or anonionic surfactant, like an alkanolamide, can be included in thecomposition to improve the esthetic properties and consumer appeal ofthe composition.

Treating the hair with single application of an aqueous compositionincluding an anionic cleansing surfactant, such as an alkyl ethersulfate, like sodium lauryl ether sulfate; a water-insolubleconditioning agent, such as a silicone compound or a hydrocarboncompound, like a polydimethylsiloxane; an emulsifying compositionincluding a polyhydric compound, such as a glycol, a triol or a polyol,like glycerin, and a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, such as aquaternary ammonium compound including a fatty amidoalkyl substituent,like a long-chain alkamidopropyl quaternary ammonium chloride; and asuspending agent, effectively cleanses the hair and simultaneouslyimparts excellent wet stage and excellent dry stage conditioningproperties to the hair. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, hair shampooedwith an easy-to-apply anionic surfactant-based composition of thepresent invention is thoroughly cleansed and exhibits improved physicaland cosmetic properties, such as gloss, thickness, manageability,softness and body.

Therefore, one aspect of the present invention is to provide aconditioning shampoo composition that cleanses the hair and that impartsimproved physical properties and cosmetic properties to the hair in asingle application of the composition to the hair.

Another aspect of the present invention is to provide a conditioningshampoo composition, comprising an anionic cleansing surfactant; awater-insoluble conditioning agent; an emulsifying composition includinga polyhydric compound and a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound;and a suspending agent, in a suitable carrier comprising water, andoptionally, an amphoteric surfactant, a nonionic surfactant or acombination thereof.

Another aspect of the present invention is to provide a conditioningshampoo composition that effectively resists phase separation,demonstrates extended product stability, exhibits excellent cleansingproperties, exhibits essentially no adverse interactions between theanionic and the cationic components of the composition and effectivelydelivers the conditioning compounds to the hair or scalp to impartconditioning properties thereto.

Another aspect of the present invention is to provide a method oftreating hair with a conditioning shampoo composition to cleanse thehair and to improve the condition of the hair with a single applicationof the composition to the hair.

Another aspect of the present invention is to provide a method ofshampooing hair comprising contacting the hair with a compositionincluding an anionic cleansing surfactant, a water-insolubleconditioning agent, an emulsifying composition including a polyhydriccompound and a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, and asuspending agent, in a suitable carrier comprising water and optionally,an amphoteric surfactant, a nonionic surfactant or a combinationthereof, rinsing the hair; then drying the hair, to cleanse the hairand, essentially simultaneously, to impart improved physical andcosmetic conditioning properties to the hair in a single application ofthe composition.

Yet another aspect of the present invention is to provide a method ofshampooing hair to yield cleansed hair and unexpectedly well-conditionedhair by contacting the hair with an aqueous composition comprising about5% to about 30% by weight of an anionic cleansing surfactant; about 0.1%to about 8% by weight of a water-insoluble conditioning agent; anemulsifying composition including about 0.2% to about 15% by weight ofthe total composition of a polyhydric compound and about 0.05% to about0.5% by weight of the total composition of a hydrophilic quaternaryammonium compound; and about 0.1% to about 1% by weight of a suspendingagent; rinsing the hair; and then drying the hair.

Another aspect of the present invention is to provide a method ofshampooing the hair to yield cleansed hair and unexpectedlywell-conditioned hair by contacting the hair with an aqueous compositioncomprising: (a) about 5% to about 30% by weight of an anionic cleansingsurfactant; (b) about 0.1% to about 8% by weight of a water-insolubleconditioning agent, such as a silicone conditioning agent; a hydrocarbonconditioning agent; a fatty alcohol; a fatty ester; or a combinationthereof, wherein the fatty alcohol or fatty ester includes a fatty alkylgroup having 8 to about 22 carbon atoms; (c) an emulsifying compositionincluding about 0.2% to about 15% by weight of the total composition ofa polyhydric compound and about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight of thetotal composition of a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, such asa quaternary ammonium compound including a fatty amidoalkyl substituent;and (d) a suspending agent, and, optionally, 0% to about 5% by weight ofan amphoteric surfactant, such as betaine or a hydroxypropylsultaine, or0% to about 5% by weight of a nonionic surfactant, like an alkanolamide,or a combination thereof; rinsing the hair; and then drying the hair.

Another aspect of the present invention is to provide a method ofshampooing hair to yield, in a single hair treatment, cleansed andunexpectedly well-conditioned hair by contacting the hair with anaqueous composition comprising about 5% to about 30% by weight of ananionic cleansing surfactant; about 0.1% to about 8% by weight of apolydimethylsiloxane as the water-insoluble conditioning agent; anemulsifying composition including about 0.2% to about 15% by weight ofthe total composition of glycerin as the polyhydric compound and about0.05% to about 0.5% by weight of the total composition of dimethylstearamidopropyl[(2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl] ammonium chloride orricinoleamidopropyl trimonium chloride, or a combination thereof, as thehydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound; and about 0.1% to about 1% ofmethocel, di(hydrogenated tallow) phthalic acid amide, crosslinkedmaleic anhydride-methyl vinyl ether copolymer, a primary amine includingone fatty alkyl moiety of at least 16 carbon atom, a secondary amineincluding two fatty alkyl moieties each having at least 12 carbon atoms,such as, for example, dipalmitoylamine and di(hydrogenated tallow)amine, or a combination thereof as the suspending agent; rinsing thehair; and then drying the hair.

Another aspect of the present invention is to provide a method ofmanufacturing a phase stable, aqueous conditioning shampoo compositioncomprising an anionic cleansing surfactant; a water-insolubleconditioning agent, like a silicone conditioner or a hydrocarbonconditioner; an emulsifying composition including a polyhydric compoundand a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound; and a suspending agentincluding the steps of:

(a) preparing a homogeneous blend of the polyhydric compound and thehydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound;

(b) admixing the homogeneous blend of step (a) with the water-insolubleconditioning agent to form a gel having a viscosity of at least 5000cps; and

(c) admixing the anionic cleansing surfactant, a suspending agent andwater with the gel of step (b) to provide an emulsified conditioningshampoo composition of the present invention.

Still another aspect of the present invention is to provide a new andimproved conditioning shampoo composition capable of effectivelycleansing the hair and imparting improved physical, cosmetic andesthetic conditioning properties both to normal hair and to tinted,frosted, bleached or other substantially-damaged hair.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The above and other aspects and novel features of the present inventionwill become apparent from the following detailed description of thepreferred embodiments, as illustrated in the accompanying figuresshowing the improved composition stability and the improved hairconditioning properties imparted to shampooed hair by using the methodsand composition of the present invention, wherein:

FIG. 1 is a plot of the weight percent of a water-insoluble conditioningagent in a gel vs. the viscosity of the gel showing the relationshipbetween gel viscosity and amount of water-insoluble conditioning agentin the gel;

FIG. 2 is a plot of viscosity of the gel vs. the particle size, inmicrons, of the water-insoluble conditioning agent dispersed in the gel;

FIG. 3 is a series of two sets of bar graphs, one set showing weightpercent of gel in a conditioning shampoo vs. the particle size of thewater-insoluble conditioning agent in the shampoo, and the second setshowing weight percent of gel in a conditioning shampoo vs. siliconeindex, a comparison between the two sets of bar graphs demonstrates theeffects of particle size and amount of water-insoluble conditioningagent in the composition on deposition of the water-insolubleconditioning agent on the hair;

FIGS. 4 and 5 are a series of bar graphs comparing a composition of thepresent invention to PERT PLUS, a commercial shampoo-conditioner, for anability to impart wet stage and dry stage conditioning properties toshampooed hair in a salon half head study;

FIG. 6 is a series of bar graphs comparing a composition of the presentinvention to PERT PLUS for an ability to impart dry stage conditioningproperties to shampooed hair;

FIG. 7 is a series of bar graphs comparing a composition of the presentinvention to PERT PLUS for an ability to impart wet stage conditioningproperties to shampooed hair; and

FIG. 8 is a series of bar graphs comparing a composition of the presentinvention to PERT PLUS for an ability to generate a sufficient foamlevel during shampooing.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

A conditioning shampoo composition of the present invention comprises ananionic cleansing surfactant; a water-insoluble hair conditioningcompound; an emulsifying composition including a polyhydric compound anda hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound; and a suspending agent, in asuitable carrier comprising water. In accordance with an importantfeature of the present invention, the conditioning shampoo compositionincludes an anionic cleansing surfactant, a substantive cationiccompound and a substantive nonionic water-insoluble conditioning agentto both cleanse and condition the hair in a single application of thecomposition to the hair.

Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the conditioning shampoo compositiondemonstrates excellent stability both in regard to resisting phaseseparation of the water-insoluble conditioning agent from the aqueouscomposition and in regard to resisting an interaction between theanionic and cationic components of the composition, thereby avoiding thenecessity of including an amphoteric surfactant in the composition.Optionally, however, an amphoteric surfactant, or a nonionic surfactant,or a combination thereof, can be included in the composition to impartimproved physical properties, and therefore enhanced consumer appeal, tothe composition.

The easy-to-apply composition effectively cleanses the hair and, becauseof the combination of cationic and nonionic conditioning agents presentin the composition, imparts excellent wet comb and dry comb conditioningproperties to the hair. In general, the cleansed hair demonstratesimproved physical and cosmetic conditioning properties, such as gloss,thickness, softness, manageability and body. As will be demonstratedmore fully hereinafter, it is surprising and unexpected for acomposition of the present invention, including an anionic cleansingcompound, a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound and awater-insoluble conditioning compound, to exhibit such excellentcomposition stability in regard to phase separation and in regardadverse cationic-anionic interactions, and to cleanse the hair andimpart such improved conditioning properties to the hair in a singleapplication of the composition to the hair.

The anionic cleansing surfactant used in the composition and method ofthe present invention includes any of the anionic surfactants known orpreviously used in the art of hair shampoos. An anionic cleansingsurfactant is a necessary ingredient in the composition of the presentinvention because it effectively cleanses the hair and generates a high,stable, foam level that consumers equate with cleaning efficiency.Nonionic and amphoteric surfactants generally are not as effective incleansing the hair and do not provide the high foam level desired byconsumers. Therefore, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants areunsatisfactory as the primary cleansing surfactant in a composition ofthe present invention. However, optionally, nonionic or amphotericsurfactants can be included in a composition of the present invention tohelp increase and stabilize foam, to provide a suitable compositionviscosity, or to furnish functional or esthetic properties to thecomposition.

Usually, the anionic cleansing surfactant includes a hydrophobic moiety,such as a carbon chain including about eight carbon atoms to about 30carbon atoms, and particularly about twelve carbon atoms to about twentycarbon atoms; and further includes a hydrophilic moiety, such assulfate, sulfonate, carbonate, phosphate or carboxylate. Often, thehydrophobic carbon chain is etherified, such as with ethylene oxide orpropylene oxide, to impart a particular physical property or reducedsurface tension, to the anionic cleansing surfactant.

The anionic cleansing surfactants are well-known and have been widelyused in the art of hair shampoos. Therefore, suitable anionic cleansingsurfactants include but are not limited to, compounds in the classesknown as alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfonates,sulfate esters of an alkylphenoxy polyoxyethylene ethanol, alpha-olefinsulfonates, beta-alkyloxy alkane sulfonates, alkyl arylsulfonates, alkylcarbonates, alkyl ether carboxylates, fatty acids, sulfosuccinates,alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, sarcosinates, octoxynol phosphates,nonoxynol phosphates, taurates, fatty taurides, sulfated monoglycerides,fatty acid amido polyoxyethylene sulfates and isothienates; orcombinations thereof. Many additional anionic cleansing surfactants aredescribed in McCUTCHEON'S, DETERGENTS AND EMULSIFIERS, 1989 ANNUAL,published by McCutcheon Division, MC Publishing Co., and incorporatedherein by reference.

Usually, the anionic cleansing surfactant is present in the compositionas a neutralized salt in the form of a sodium, potassium, lithium,ammonium, alkylammonium or hydroxyalkylammonium salt, wherein the alkylmoiety includes one to about three carbon atoms. The alkyl sulfates andalkyl ether sulfates are particularly effective classes of anioniccleansing surfactants. Consequently, exemplary anionic cleansingsurfactants useful in the composition and method of the presentinvention include, but are not limited to, the ammonium,monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropylamine,sodium, potassium, lithium or magnesium salt of lauryl sulfate,dodecylbenzenesulfonate, lauryl sulfosuccinate, lauryl ether sulfate,lauryl ether carboxylate, lauryl sarcosinate, cocomethyl tauride, andsulfosuccinate half ester amide; or combinations thereof. An example ofan especially useful anionic cleansing surfactant is a combination of alauryl sulfate salt and a lauryl ether sulfate salt.

In accordance with an important feature of the present invention, theanionic cleansing surfactant is present in the composition in an amountof about 5% to about 30% by weight of the composition. If the anioniccleansing surfactant is present in an amount of less than about 5% byweight of the composition, then the hair is not sufficiently cleansedupon contact with a composition of the present invention. Furthermore,if the anionic cleansing surfactant is present in an amount greater thanabout 30% by weight of the composition, the anionic cleansing surfactanteither may form a complex with the cationic conditioning components ofthe composition, thereby leading to precipitation of the complex, or maysolubilize a portion of the cationic components therefore making thesolubilized portion essentially unavailable for deposition onto the hairshaft during shampooing.

The anionic cleansing surfactant is included in the conditioning shampoocomposition of the present invention in a preferred amount of about 7%to about 20% by weight of the composition, and to achieve the fulladvantage of the present invention, from about 9% to about 18% by weightof the composition. Furthermore, surprisingly and unexpectedly, evenwhen such a low amount of anionic cleansing surfactant is included inthe composition, the presence of the hydrophilic quaternary ammoniumcompound and water-insoluble conditioning agent do not adversely affectthe generation of an acceptable and stable foam level for consumeracceptance.

In accordance with another important feature of the present invention,the conditioning shampoo composition includes an emulsifying compositionthat effectively emulsifies a water-insoluble conditioning agent in theanionic surfactant-based shampoo. The emulsifying composition includes apolyhydric compound and a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound. Thepolyhydric compound and hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound providea phase stable composition and help minimize or eliminate an interactionbetween the hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound and the anioniccleansing surfactant.

The polyhydric compound serves to couple the hydrophilic quaternaryammonium compound and the water-insoluble conditioning agent, andthereby provide an anhydrous gel that subsequently is diluted with anaqueous solution of the anionic cleansing surfactant, the suspendingagent and the remaining water-soluble composition components. Polyhydriccompounds useful in the composition and method of the present inventioninclude, for example, glycols, triols and polyols. The particularidentity of the polyhydric compound is not limited as long as thepolyhydric compound provides a gel having a viscosity of at least 5000cps, and preferably of about 10,000 cps to about 60,000 cps. Theviscosity of the gel is directly related to the diameter of the dropletsof the emulsified water-insoluble conditioning agent present in theconditioning shampoo composition. A gel viscosity of about 10,000 cps toabout 18,000 cps provides an emulsified composition wherein thedispersed droplets of the water-insoluble conditioning agent have adiameter of about 5μ (microns) to about 50μ, and preferably of about 10μto about 40μ. Emulsified droplets of the water-insoluble conditioningagent having a diameter of about 5μ to about 50μ are sufficiently largefor efficient deposition onto the shampooed hair, e.g., they are notreadily rinsed from the hair during the shampooing, and are sufficientlysmall to remain suspended in the conditioning shampoo composition, e.g.,they effectively resist phase separation during storage.

Specific examples of useful polyhydric compounds include, but are notlimited to, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol,isobutylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethyleneglycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol,fructose, glucose, neopentyl glycol, pentaerythritol, pinacol,cyclopentanediol, cyclohexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, hydroxystearylmethylglucamine, inositol, maltitol, mannitol, methyl gluceth-10, methylgluceth-20, sorbitol, sorbeth-20, sucrose, xylitol, or a polyethyleneglycol, a polypropylene glycol or a polyethylene-polypropylene glycolhaving an average molecular weight up to about 500, or combinationsthereof.

In particular, triols and polyols, like, for example, glycerol,1,2,6-hexanetriol, pentaerythritol, inositol, mannitol and sorbitol, areespecially useful in the composition and method of the presentinvention. These triols and polyols provide a gel having a viscosity ofat least 5000 cps. In addition, the triols and the diols can be used incombination, or in combination with a polyol. To achieve the fulladvantage of the present invention, the polyhydric compound is glycerol,or glycerin.

A polyhydric compound is essential to the present invention.Compositions absent a polyhydric compound, like glycerin, do noteffectively resist phase separation, and also are unstable with respectto an unacceptable adverse interaction between the hydrophilicquaternary ammonium compound and the anionic cleansing surfactant. Ithas been theorized, but not relied upon herein, that a composition ofthe present invention including a polyhydric compound is phase stablebecause the polyhydric compound, as the continuous phase of the gel,effectively prevents or reduces an interaction between the anioniccleansing surfactant and hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, andprovides a hydrophilic medium to disperse the water-insolubleconditioning agent, and therefore a composition that resists phaseseparation under normal storage conditions.

The polyhydric compound, present in an amount of about 0.2% to about15%, and preferably about 0.5% to about 8%, by weight of the totalcomposition, and about 30% to about 60% by weight of the gel, provides acomposition wherein the dispersed droplets of the water-insolubleconditioning agent have a diameter of about 5μ to about 50μ, and alsoimparts some conditioning properties to the shampooed hair. However, thepolyhydric compound primarily provides a hydrophilic medium to dispersethe water-insoluble conditioning agent and to reduce or eliminateinteractions between the anionic cleansing surfactant and thehydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound. In the gel comprising theemulsifying composition and the water-insoluble conditioning agent, thepolyhydric compound preferably is present in an amount of about 35% toabout 55%, and to achieve the full advantage of the present invention inan amount of about 40% to about 50%, by weight of the gel.

In addition to the anionic cleansing surfactant and the polyhydriccompound, the conditioning shampoo composition also includes ahydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound in an amount of about 0.05% toabout 0.5%, and preferably from about 0.1% to about 0.4%, by weight ofthe total composition to emulsify the water-insoluble conditioning agentin the composition and to impart conditioning properties to theshampooed hair. In the gel, the hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compoundis present in an amount of about 1% to about 10%, and preferably fromabout 2% to about 8%, by weight of the gel. In general, quaternaryammonium compounds are incompatible with anionic surfactants. However,the particular cationic quaternary ammonium compounds included in acomposition manufactured by the present method essentially do notinteract with the anionic cleansing surfactant present in thecomposition, and also provide a stable emulsified composition thatresists phase separation. Therefore, the anionic cleansing surfactant isavailable to cleanse the hair and the quaternary ammonium compound andwater-insoluble conditioning compound are available to condition thehair.

In particular, introducing a quaternary ammonium compound into thecomposition: 1) provides an excellent hair conditioner for treatinghair, 2) does not destabilize the composition to such a degree that aninteraction between the anionic cleansing surfactant and the quaternaryammonium compound occurs, and 3) provides an emulsifying composition,further including the polyhydric compound, that effectively emulsifiesthe water-insoluble conditioning compound. Therefore, neither ingredientprecipitation, nor phase separation nor decreased product performance isobserved. In effect, product performance actually is increased becausethe composition includes two types of conditioning agents, i.e., acationic conditioning agent and a nonionic water-insoluble conditioningagent, to impart a broader range of conditioning properties to hair inboth the wet stage and the dry stage. Therefore, improved and moredurable conditioning properties, such as body and manageability, areimparted to the shampooed hair. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, thepresent method and composition overcome two major problems encounteredin formulating a conditioning shampoo composition, i.e., acationic-anionic interaction and phase stability because of the presenceof a water-insoluble conditioning compound, and provide an anionic-basedshampoo that includes two types of conditioners to impart a broaderrange of conditioning properties to treated hair.

The most commonly-used quaternary ammonium compounds include at leastone quaternized nitrogen atom having one, two or three saturated alkylgroups including about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms as substituents on thequaternary nitrogen atom, with the remaining substituents on thequaternary nitrogen atom selected from hydrogen, benzyl, short chainalkyl groups and short chain hydroxyalkyl groups, wherein the shortchain alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups include up to about four carbonatoms. However, it has been found that the most common quaternaryammonium compounds are not useful in the composition of the presentinvention.

Quaternary ammonium compounds useful in the present invention arehydrophilic quaternary ammonium compounds and generally include a longchain substituent having a carbonyl moiety, like an amide moiety, or aphosphate ester moiety or a similar hydrophilic moiety. These particularquaternary ammonium compounds demonstrate exceptional compatibility withthe anionic cleansing surfactant when incorporated into a conditioningshampoo composition of the present invention, and demonstrate anexcellent ability, when combined with the polyhydric compound, tosolubilize the water-insoluble conditioning agent in a gel and providean emulsified conditioning shampoo that resists phase separation andgenerates an acceptable foam level.

In particular, one class of hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compoundsfound especially useful in the composition of the present invention isdepicted by general structural formula (I): ##STR1## wherein R₁ is asubstituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, alkyl groupincluding about 5 to about 21 carbon atoms; R₂ is hydrogen or methyl; R₃and R4, independently, are methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or benzyl; R₅ ismethyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, benzyl, acetamido or 2-pyrrolidonyl; n is anumeral from one to about 10; and X is an anion selected from the groupconsisting of chloride, bromide, ethosulfate, methosulfate, acetate,nitrate, tosylate, phosphate, and combinations thereof. A quaternaryammonium compound of general structural formula (I) demonstrates asufficient compatibility with the anionic cleansing surfactant, asufficient ability to emulsify the nonionic water-insoluble conditioningagent and a sufficient ability to impart conditioning properties toshampooed hair.

Examples of useful hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compounds having thegeneral structural 10 formula (I) include, but are not limited to,compounds designated in the CTFA Cosmetic Dictionary, published by theCosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C.(1982), or in the 1985 Supplement, hereinafter referred to as the CTFADictionary, as ricinoleamidopropyl trimonium chloride, ricinoleamidotrimonium ethylsulfate, hydroxy stearamidopropyl trimonium methylsulfateand hydroxy stearamidopropyl trimonium chloride, or combinationsthereof. These quaternary ammonium compounds are available commerciallyfrom CasChem Inc., Bayonne, N.J. under the brandnames SURFACTOL Q1,SURFACTOL Q4, SURFACTOL Q3 and SURFACTOL Q2, respectively. Anotheruseful quaternary ammonium compound having the general structuralformula (I) is designated in the CTFA Dictionary as ricinoleamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, available commercially as LIPOQUAT R fromLipo Chemicals, Inc., Paterson, N.J. An especially useful hydrophilicquaternary ammonium compound is dimethylstearamidopropy[(2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl] ammonium chloride, having thestructural formula depicted in structural formula (II), and availablefrom ISP Chemicals Corp., Wayne, N.J. ##STR2##

In particular, these hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compounds possesseither a hydroxy substituent on the R₁ alkyl group of the compounddepicted in general structural formula (I) and/or unsaturation in thecarbon chain of the R₁ alkyl group of the compound of structural formula(I), or possess a carbonyl group in the R₅ alkyl group of the compoundof structural formula (I). Examples of other useful quaternary ammoniumsurfactants include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-33,Quaternium-43, isostearamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate,Quaternium-22 and Quaternium-26, or combinations thereof, as designatedin the CTFA Dictionary. In general, however, any quaternary ammoniumcompound including a fatty amidoalkyl substituent can be included in thecomposition of the present invention as long as the resistance to phaseseparation; the resistance to an interaction between cationic andanionic ingredients; the ability to solubilize and emulsify the nonionicwater-insoluble conditioning agent; the cleansing efficiency; theconditioning efficiency; and the foam generation capabilities of thecomposition are not adversely affected.

Another particularly useful class of quaternary ammonium compounds thatcan be included in the composition of the present invention are thequaternized phosphate esters, as depicted in general structural formula(III): ##STR3## wherein R₆ is an aryl, an alkaryl, a saturated orunsaturated alkyl group, or a saturated or unsaturated hydroxyalkylgroup, wherein the alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group includes about seven toabout 21 carbon atoms; R₇ is hydrogen, or an alkyl or a hydroxyalkylgroup including one to about six carbon atoms; R₈ and R₉, independently,are an alkyl or a hydroxyalkyl group including one to about six carbonatoms; A is a residue of a glycol or a triol having two to about fourcarbon atoms, such as the residue of propylene glycol (--OCH₂ CH(OH)CH₂--); Z is an anion selected from the group consisting of chloride,bromide, methosulfate, ethosulfate, and combinations thereof; m is anumeral from one to about 10; Y is selected from the group consisting ofhydrogen, an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, and an aryl group,either substituted or unsubstituted, and wherein the alkyl or thehydroxyalkyl group includes one to about 22 carbon atoms; and p is anumber from 1 to 3. To achieve the full advantage of the presentinvention, the quaternized phosphate ester is a quaternized phosphatetriester that includes the alkyl moiety of an essential fatty acid, likelinoleic acid, arachidonic acid or ricinoleic acid, as the R₆substituent of the compound. For example, the quaternized phosphateester of general structural formula (III) that includes the alkyl moietyof an essential fatty acid as the R₆ substituent and wherein the numberp is 3.

The essential fatty acid substituent helps the compound impartconditioning properties to the hair and also provides skin conditioningproperties to the scalp. An example of an especially useful quaternizedphosphate triester is depicted in structural formula (IV), availablecommercially under the brandname PHOSPHOLIPID EFA, from Mona Industries,Paterson, N.J., and having the proposed CTFA Dictionary designation##STR4## linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate. Thisparticular compound has p equal to 3 and includes the alkyl moiety oflinoleic acid as the substituent R₆.

It should be understood that the monophosphate ester (i.e., p=1) anddiphosphate ester (i.e., p=2) of the quaternized phosphate esterillustrated in general structural formula (III) also can be used in thecomposition of the present invention as long as the basic properties ofthe conditioning shampoo are not adversely affected. For example,suitable monophosphate and diphosphate esters of general structuralformula (III) include Y as hydrogen, if the composition pH issufficiently low such that the acid form of the phosphoric acid ester ispresent, as opposed to the neutralized, salt form; or Y is an alkylgroup, a hydroxyalkyl group or an aryl group.

Other hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compounds useful in a compositionof the present invention, and that do not belong to the two classes ofhydrophilic quaternary ammonium compounds described above include, butare not limited to, Quaternium-16, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30,Quaternium-52, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-56, Quaternium-60,Quaternium-61, Quaternium-62, Quaternium-63, Quaternium-71, andcombinations thereof.

The hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound is present in theconditioning shampoo composition in an amount of about 0.05% to about0.5% by weight of the total composition. Preferably, the quaternaryammonium compound is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 0.4% byweight of the total composition. The hydrophilic quaternary ammoniumcompound is present in the gel comprising the polyhydric compound, thequaternary ammonium compound and the water-insoluble conditioning agentin an amount of about 1% to about 10%, and preferably about 2% to about8%, by weight of the gel. The quaternary ammonium compound is present inthe conditioning shampoo composition in a sufficient amount, e.g., about0.05% to about 0.5% by weight of the composition, to impart conditioningproperties to shampooed hair. However, the primary function of thehydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound is to assist the polyhydriccompound emulsify the water-insoluble conditioning agent. Therefore,when the quaternary ammonium compound is present at about 0.05% to about0.5% by weight of the composition, and is preblended with the polyhydriccompound, preferably in a ratio of about 4 to 1 to about 50 to 1, and toachieve the full advantage of the present invention about 5 to 1 toabout 25 to 1, of polyhydric compound to hydrophilic quaternary ammoniumcompound, the preblend is an effective emulsifying composition for thewater-insoluble conditioning agent and provides a stable conditioningshampoo composition.

In addition to the anionic cleansing surfactant, the polyhydric compoundand the hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, the conditioningshampoo composition also includes a water-insoluble conditioning agent.In particular, the water-insoluble conditioning agent is a nonioniccompound, such as for example a silicone conditioning compound, ahydrocarbon conditioning compound, a fatty ester or a fatty alcohol,wherein the fatty alkyl group includes about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.To achieve the full advantage of the present invention, thewater-insoluble conditioning agent is a silicone conditioning compound,either volatile or nonvolatile, or a combination thereof. Thewater-insoluble conditioning agent is included in the composition in anamount of about 0.1% to about 8% by weight of the composition.Preferably, the water-insoluble conditioning compound is present in anamount of about 1% to about 6% by weight of the composition. Thewater-insoluble conditioning agent is present in the gel in an amount ofabout 40% to about 70%, and preferably about 45% to about 65%, by weightof the gel.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the conditioning-shampoocomposition includes a nonvolatile silicone conditioning compound as thewater-insoluble conditioning agent. The nonvolatile silicone can be, forexample, a polyalkyl siloxane, a polyaryl siloxane or a polyalkylarylsiloxane. Mixtures of these silicone conditioning compounds also areuseful. The preferred nonvolatile silicone is a nonvolatilepolydimethylsiloxane compound, such as a mixture, in about 2:1 weightratio, of a low molecular weight polydimethylsiloxane fluid and a highermolecular weight polydimethylsiloxane gum. Preferred silicone gumsinclude linear and branched polydimethylsiloxanes of the followinggeneral formula:

    (CH.sub.3).sub.3 SiO--[Si(CH.sub.3).sub.2 O].sub.n --Si(CH.sub.3).sub.3,

wherein n is a number from about 2,000 to about 15,000, and preferablyfrom about 2,000 to about 7,000. Silicone gums useful in compositions ofthe present invention are available from a variety of commercialsources, including General Electric Company, Waterford, N.Y. and DowCorning Corp., Midland, Mich.

The nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxane agent is added to the compositionof the present invention in an amount sufficient to impart improvedcombing and improved feel, such as softness, to the hair aftershampooing. As referred to herein, useful nonvolatile silicones arethose nonfunctional siloxanes or siloxane mixtures having a viscosity ofabout 5 to about 600,000 cs (centistokes), and preferably about 350 toabout 10,000 cs, at 25° C. The so-called "rigid silicones", as describedin U.S. Pat. No. 4,902,499, herein incorporated by reference, having aviscosity above 600,000 cs at 20° C., e.g., 700,000 cs plus, and aweight average molecular weight of at least about 500,000, also areuseful in a composition of the present invention.

In another embodiment, the water-insoluble conditioning agent is avolatile silicone conditioning compound. The volatile silicone normallyis a low molecular weight polydimethylsiloxane compound, however a lowmolecular weight polydimethylsiloxane including phenyl substituents alsois useful in the compositions of the present invention. Furthermore, thelow molecular weight polydimethylsiloxane compound can be a linear or acyclic polydimethylsiloxane compound. The volatile polydimethylsiloxanecompound provides sufficient lubrication and imparts hair conditioningproperties to wet hair, and has sufficient volatility to slowlyvolatilize from the hair such that a residual buildup of siliconecompound is not present on dry hair.

An example of a linear, low molecular weight, volatilepolydimethylsiloxane compound useful in the composition and method ofthe present invention is the compound designated in the CTFA Dictionaryas hexamethyldisiloxane, available commercially under the tradename DOWCORNING 200 FLUID, from Dow Corning Corp., Midland, Mich.Hexamethyldisiloxane has a viscosity of 0.65 cs (centistokes), is highlyvolatile, is nongreasy, provides lubrication, and improves the overallcombing properties of the hair. Other linear polydimethylsiloxanes, suchas decamethyltetrasiloxane, having a boiling point of about 172° C. anda viscosity of 2.5 centistokes; octamethyltrisiloxane; anddodecamethylpentasiloxane, also are useful in the composition of thepresent invention.

In addition, cyclic, volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, designated in theCTFA Dictionary as cyclomethicones, also are useful in the compositionand method of the present invention. The cyclomethicones are lowmolecular weight, water-insoluble cyclic compounds having an average ofabout 3 to about 6--[O--Si(CH₃)₂ ]-- repeating group units per moleculeand boil at atmospheric pressure in a range of from about 150° C. toabout 250° C. Suitable cyclomethicones are available commercially underthe tradenames SILICONE SF-1173 (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) andSILICONE SF-1202 (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) from General Electric,Waterford, N.Y., and SILICONE 334 FLUID and SILICONE 345 FLUID from DowCorning Corporation, Midland, Mich., the tetramer being listed first ineach instance. The cyclic volatile silicones can be used in the presentcompositions in combination with a linear volatile silicone, and thevolatile silicone conditioner can be used in conjunction with thenonvolatile silicone conditioner.

Another suitable water-insoluble conditioning agent useful in thecomposition of the present invention is a nonvolatile hydrocarbonconditioner, such as mineral oil. The nonvolatile hydrocarbons providemany of the same benefits as the silicone conditioning compounds, andcan be included in the composition in conjunction with a siliconeconditioning compound.

In another embodiment, the water-insoluble conditioning agent is avolatile hydrocarbon conditioner, such as a hydrocarbon including about10 to about 26 carbon atoms, that has sufficient volatility to slowlyvolatilize from the hair to prevent a residual buildup of hydrocarbon ondry hair. The volatile hydrocarbon provides essentially the samebenefits as the volatile silicone, such as lubrication and wet hairconditioning.

The preferred volatile hydrocarbon compound is an aliphatic hydrocarbonincluding about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, and has a boiling point inthe range of from about 100° C. to about 300° C. Exemplary volatilehydrocarbons are depicted in general structural formula (V), wherein nranges from 2 to 5. ##STR5##

Examples of volatile hydrocarbons useful in the compositions of thepresent invention are the commercially-available compounds PERMETHYL 99Aand PERMETHYL 101A, corresponding to compounds of general structure (V)wherein n is 2 and 3, respectively, from Permethyl Corporation, Frazer,Pa. A volatile hydrocarbon compound is useful in the conditioningshampoo composition of the present invention either alone, incombination with another volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon, or incombination with a volatile or nonvolatile silicone.

In another embodiment, the water-insoluble conditioning agent is a fattyalcohol, wherein the fatty alcohol includes about 8 to about 22, andpreferably about 12 to about 22, carbon atoms. Exemplary fatty alcoholsinclude, but are not limited to, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, myristylalcohol, tallow alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearylalcohol, behenyl alcohol, and combinations thereof. A fatty alcohol canbe used alone, or in combination with a silicone conditioning agent or ahydrocarbon conditioning agent.

In another embodiment, the water-insoluble conditioning agent is a fattyester. The fatty component of the fatty ester can be derived from afatty acid or a fatty alcohol, or a combination thereof. In addition,the fatty ester can be a straight fatty ester, like isopropyl myristate;a branched chain fatty ester, like Purcellin Oil; a benzoate ester, likeC₁₂₋₁₅ alcohols benzoate; or a combination thereof.

For example, a useful class of fatty esters is derived from carboxylicacids having about six to about 12 carbon atoms, including both branchedand straight chain carboxylic acids. In general, the C₆ to C₁₂carboxylic acid is esterified with a fatty alcohol including about 8 toabout 22 carbon atoms to provide a fatty (C₈ to C₂₂) ester of a C₆ toC₁₂ carboxylic acid that is useful in the present invention. Such fattyalcohols include, but are not limited to, lauryl alcohol, myristylalcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearylalcohol, oleyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixturesthereof. Accordingly, fatty (C₈ to C₂₂) esters of C₆ to C₁₂ carboxylicacids useful in the composition and method of the present inventioninclude, but are not limited to, cetyl octanoate, stearyl heptanoate,stearyl caprylate, stearyl octanoate, lauryl octanoate, myristylheptanoate and oleyl octanoate, or mixtures thereof. These fatty esterscan occur naturally or can be synthesized.

In place of, or in combination with, the fatty (C₈ to C₂₂) ester of a C₆to C₁₂ carboxylic acid; a fatty ester derived from a fatty acidincluding about eight to about 22 carbon atoms esterified with analcohol including one to about six carbon atoms can be included in thecomposition of the present invention. Examples of such fatty estersinclude, but are not limited to, isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl linoleate, isopropylisostearate, isopropyl oleate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl tallowate,isopropyl ricinoleate, methyl laurate, methyl linoleate, methylmyristate, methyl stearate, methyl ricinoleate, methyl caprylate, methyloleate, methyl palmitate, methyl stearate, methyl behenate, methylsoyate, methyl tallowate, isopropyl behenate, isopropyl soyate, propyloleate, butyl oleate, butyl stearate, methyl coconate, methyl lardate,isobutyl palmitate, butyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, ethyl myristate,ethyl oleate, ethyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isobutyl myristate andcombinations thereof.

Another class of fatty esters that can be included in the composition ofthe present invention, either alone or in combination with the fattyesters described above, is the benzoate esters, Suitable benzoate estersinclude esters of benzoic acid wherein the esterifying alcohol includesabout eight carbon atoms to about 22 carbon atoms. Examples of suitablebenzoate esters include, but are not limited to, the commercial productsFINSOLV TN, benzoic acid esterified with fatty alcohols including about12 to about 15 carbon atoms; FINSOLV SB, isostearyl benzoate; FINSOLV P,PPG-15 stearyl ether benzoate; or combinations thereof, all availablefrom Finetex Inc., Elmwood Park, N.J.

The above-described nonvolatile and volatile silicones, nonvolatile andvolatile hydrocarbon compounds, fatty alcohols and fatty esters havebeen used in hair-treating compositions and in various other cosmeticcompositions, such as antiperspirants, deodorants, hair sprays, haircoloring products, hair grooming products, powder and color products andstick products because their low surface tension provide a light, silkyfeel on hair and skin. However, it is both new and unexpected for suchwater-insoluble conditioning agents, as described above, to be combinedwith a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, an anionic cleansingsurfactant, a polyhydric compound and a suspending agent to provide anemulsified conditioning shampoo composition that imparts improved wetstage properties, dry stage properties, rinsing properties, and overallconditioning benefits to treated hair, like a reduction of split ends,improved body and improved manageability; that effectively cleanses thehair; that generates a sufficient and stable foam volume; thateffectively resists phase separation over the expected life of thecomposition; and that essentially eliminates an adverse interactionbetween the anionic and cationic components of the composition.

In addition to the anionic cleansing surfactant, the emulsifyingcomposition including the polyhydric compound and the hydrophilicquaternary ammonium compound, and the water-insoluble conditioningagent, the conditioning shampoo compositions of the present inventionalso include about 0.1% to about 1%, and preferably about 0.2% to about0.8%, by weight of the composition of a suspending agent. The suspendingagent can be either a monomeric or a polymeric compound, and either anonionic or an ionic compound. However, if the suspending agent is anionic compound the charge density should be sufficiently low such thatthe suspending agent does not interact with either a cationic componentor an anionic component of the conditioning shampoo composition.

Accordingly, nonionic suspending agents such as methylcellulose,hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcelluloseare useful in a composition of the present invention. Also, a primaryamine including a fatty alkyl moiety having at least 16 carbon atoms,like, for example, stearamine or palmitamine, and a secondary amineincluding two fatty alkyl moieties each having at least 12 carbon atoms,like, for example, dipalmitamine or di(hydrogenated tallow) amine, areuseful suspending agents. Similarly, the compound having the CTFAdesignation di(hydrogenated tallow)phthalic acid amide, availablecommercially under the brandname KESSCO TAB-2 from Stepan Chemical Co.,Northfield, Ill. is a useful suspending agent. A particularly usefulsuspending agent is STABILEZE™ 06, a crosslinked maleic anhydridemethylvinyl ether copolymer, available from ISP Chemicals, Wayne, N.J.STABILEZE™ 06 provides a composition having excellent estheticproperties, whereas a suspending agent such as methocel provides auseful composition, but the composition including methocel can exhibit astringy consistency that is disfavored by consumers. Polyacrylic acids,such as the CARBOPOL series available from B. F. Goodrich Chemical Co.,Cleveland, Ohio, have been found to be unsuitable suspending agents.

The suspending agent is included in the composition to increase theviscosity of the emulsion, and therefore further improve the phasestability of the composition and improve composition esthetics. Forexample, when the suspending agent is omitted from the composition, theemulsified composition has an unacceptably thin viscosity and phaseseparation is observed after 2 days of storage at 120° F. However, byincluding a suspending agent in the composition, a consumer acceptableviscosity for a shampoo composition, e.g., about 3,000 to about 7,500cps, resulted, and the composition was phase stable for the expectedlifetime of the composition, e.g., about one year.

In addition to the above-described essential ingredients, other commoncosmetic components and additives can be included in the conditioningshampoo composition of the present invention, as long as the basicproperties of the composition are not adversely affected. Such optionalcosmetic components and additives include, but are not limited to,nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, fragrances, dyes, haircolorants, opacifiers, pearlescing agents, thickeners, dandruff controlagents, hydrotropes, foam stabilizers, solubilizers, preservatives,water softening agents, acids, alkalies, buffers and the like. Theseoptional components and additives usually are present in weightpercentages of 0% to less than about 5% by weight each, and usuallyabout 0.1% to about 20% by weight of the composition in total.

For example, to improve consumer acceptance, enhanced shampoo mildnessand enhanced composition esthetics can be achieved by optionallyincluding an amphoteric surfactant in the hair shampoo-conditioner in anamount of 0% to about 5% by weight of the composition. Suitableamphoteric surfactants that can be included in the present invention areexemplified by, but are not limited to, betaines, hydroxypropylsultainesand amine oxides, or combinations thereof. Specific nonlimiting examplesof useful amphoteric surfactants include cocamidopropyl betaine,lauramidopropyl betaine, coco/oleamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine,oleyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, tallowamidopropylhydroxysultaine and dihydroxyethyl tallow glycinate, or combinationsthereof. In general, however, any amphoteric surfactant can be includedin the composition of the present invention as long as the stability,the conditioning and the cleansing efficiency of the composition are notadversely affected.

The conditioning shampoo compositions of the present invention also caninclude nonionic surfactants to help impart esthetic, physical orcleansing properties to the composition. Likewise, the compositions caninclude other emulsifiers, conditioning agents, inorganic salts,humectants and similar materials to provide the composition withdesirable esthetic or physical properties. Generally, such optionalingredients are present in weight percentages of 0% to about 5% each,and 0% to about 20% in total, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Representative nonionic surfactants that can be included in the hairshampoo-conditioner composition of the present invention include estersof polyols or sugars; fatty acid alkanolamides; polyethylene glycols;the ethoxylated or propoxylated alkylphenols; ethoxylated orpropoxylated fatty alcohols; and the condensation products of ethyleneoxide and long chain amides. These nonionic surfactants, as well asnumerous others not cited herein, are well known in the art and arefully described in the literature, such as McCUTCHEON'S, DETERGENTS ANDEMULSIFIERS, 1989 Annual Edition, published by McCutcheon Division, MCPublishing Co.

In particular, a nonionic alkanolamide can be included in thecomposition to enhance composition thickening and to provide foamstability. The alkanolamide can be included in an amount of 0% to about5% by weight of the composition. Accordingly, suitable alkanolamidesinclude, but are not limited to, those known in the art of hair careformulations, such as cocamide MEA, cocamide DEA, soyamide DEA,lauramide DEA, oleamide MIPA, stearamide MEA, myristamide MEA, lauramideMEA, capramide DEA, ricinoleamide DEA, myristamide DEA, stearamide DEA,oleylamide DEA, tallowamide DEA, lauramide MIPA, tallowamide MEA,isostearamide DEA, isostearamide MEA, and combinations thereof.

The carrier of the hair shampoo-conditioner composition of the presentinvention is predominantly water, but nonaqueous solvents also can beincluded to help solubilize composition ingredients that are notsufficiently soluble in water, to adjust the viscosity of thecomposition or to act as a humectant. A suitable solvent is ethanol. Theoptional nonaqueous solvents should not adversely affect the ability ofthe composition to cleanse and condition the hair or adversely affectconsumer appeal of the composition. A nonaqueous solvent can be presentin the hair shampoo-conditioner composition of the present invention inan amount of 0% to about 5% by weight of the composition.

To achieve the full advantage of the present invention, the conditioningshampoo composition is a relatively viscous mixture that is stableindefinitely at temperatures normally found in commercial productstorage and shipping. A composition of the present invention is anemulsion that is stable and that resists phase separation at atemperature of about 20° C. to about 25° C. essentially indefinitely.The compositions also have demonstrated sufficient stability to phaseseparation or precipitation of ingredients at temperatures normallyfound in commercial product storage and shipping to remain unaffectedfor periods of one year or more.

A sufficiently viscous conditioning shampoo composition results from ajudicious selection of the anionic cleansing surfactant, the polyhydriccompound, the hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, thewater-insoluble conditioning agent and the suspending agent. Inaddition, a stable and efficacious conditioning shampoo composition isprovided when the composition is manufactured according to the method ofthe present invention. In contrast, a simple blending of the essentialand optional ingredients does not provide a stable composition havingthe water-insoluble conditioning agent homogeneously dispersedthroughout the composition as emulsified droplets having a diameter ofabout 5μ to about 50μ. Within this range of diameters, the droplets ofwater-insoluble conditioning agent are sufficiently large to resistrinsing from the hair prior to deposition and are sufficiently small toresist separating from the aqueous shampoo.

Therefore, in accordance with an important feature of the presentinvention, a conditioning shampoo composition is prepared by firstforming an emulsifying composition comprising the polyhydric compoundand the hydrophilic quaternary ammonium composition. The emulsifyingcomposition preferably is essentially free of water and is formed bysimply admixing a polyhydric compound, like glycerin, and a hydrophilicquaternary ammonium compound, like dimethylstearamidopropyl[(2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl]ammonium chloride, depicted asstructural formula (II), to provide a homogeneous mixture.

Then, a water-insoluble conditioning agent, like a polydimethylsiloxane,is added to the emulsifying composition. The emulsifying composition andwater-insoluble conditioning agent are admixed until the ingredientsform a homogeneous gel. The gel is an emulsion wherein the polyhydriccompound is the continuous phase and the water-insoluble conditioningagent is the dispersed phase. The hydrophilic quaternary ammoniumcompound serves as the emulsifier.

In accordance with an important feature of the present invention, theidentity and the amount of the polyhydric compound, the hydrophilicquaternary ammonium compound and the water-insoluble conditioning agentare selected such that the gel has a viscosity of at least 5,000 cps,and preferably about 10,000 cps to about 60,000 cps. To achieve the fulladvantage of the present invention, the gel has a viscosity of about10,000 cps to about 18,000 cps.

A gel having a viscosity of about 5,000 cps to about 18,000 cps providesan emulsified conditioning shampoo composition wherein the dispersedwater-insoluble conditioning agent is present as droplets having adiameter of about 5μ to about 50μ. Preferably, the dispersed dropletshave a diameter of about 10μ to about 40μ. To achieve the full advantageof the present invention, the dispersed droplets have a diameter ofabout 15μ to about 30μ. Dispersed droplets of conditioning agent havingsuch a diameter distribution provide the best balance of properties inregard to deposition of the conditioning agent on a shampooed hair shaftand in regard to phase stability of the conditioning shampoocomposition. Preferably, the gel includes less than about 20% water byweight of the gel, in order to effectively emulsify the water-insolubleconditioning agent and to provide a gel having a viscosity of at leastabout 5000 cps. To achieve the full advantage of the present invention,the gel includes less than 10% water by weight of the gel.

In a separate vessel, the suspending agent is solubilized or dispersedin water, either by simply admixing the suspending agent in the water,e.g., if methocel is the suspending agent; or by admixing the suspendingagent and a suitable neutralizing agent in the water, e.g., ifcrosslinked maleic anhydride-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is thesuspending agent, sodium hydroxide also is included in the water. Theanionic cleansing surfactant then is added to the aqueous solution ordispersion of the suspending agent. Next, the gel and the aqueoussolution or dispersion of the suspending agent and anionic cleansingsurfactant are admixed to provide an emulsified composition of thepresent invention. In accordance with an important feature of thepresent method, heating is not required to emulsify the water-insolubleconditioning agent in the composition. The composition has a viscositysuitable for use as a hair shampoo; effectively resists phaseseparation; exhibits essentially no cationic-anionic interactions;effectively cleanses and conditions the hair; and generates anacceptable and stable foam level.

In accordance with the method of the present invention, severalconditioning shampoo compositions were prepared, then applied to hair,to demonstrate the ability of a single application of an aqueouscomposition, comprising an anionic cleansing surfactant; awater-insoluble conditioning agent; an emulsifying composition includinga polyhydric compound and a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound;and a suspending agent, to simultaneously cleanse the hair and imparthair-conditioning properties to the hair. Tests also were performed todemonstrate the stability of the compositions. Although the mechanism ofinteraction between the essential ingredients that provides a physicallyand chemically stable composition and allows a maximum deposition of thecationic and the nonionic water-ionic water-insoluble conditioning agenton the hair is not known precisely, it has been theorized, but notrelied upon herein, that the method of manufacturing the compositionprovides a dispersed phase of water-insoluble conditioning agent havinga droplet diameter of about 5μ to about 50μ, and emulsified by thehydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound and the polyhydric compound.

Accordingly, it has been theorized that the dispersed droplets ofwater-insoluble conditioning agent are sufficiently small to resistseparating from the aqueous shampoo composition, and the cationicquaternary ammonium functionalities are sufficiently isolated fromcontact with the anionic cleansing surfactants. Consequently, becausecontact between the anionic and cationic components of the compositionis effectively prevented, the cationic components are not precipitatedfrom the composition, do not otherwise interact with the anioniccleansing surfactant to decrease effectiveness, and are thereforeavailable to effectively deposit onto, and condition, the hair shaft. Inaddition, the droplet diameter distribution of the emulsifiedwater-insoluble conditioning agent is sufficiently large for efficientdeposition on the shampooed hair. Similarly, the anionic cleansingsurfactant also is available to effectively cleanse the hair.Furthermore, salon tests have demonstrated that a stable andsufficiently high foam level is generated during shampooing, therebyproviding enhanced consumer appeal, even at the relatively low amountsof anionic cleansing surfactant present in the composition.

To demonstrate the new and unexpected results provided by theconditioning shampoo of the present invention, the following Example 1was prepared. The method of manufacturing the hair shampoo-conditionercomposition will be discussed in detail hereinafter. The composition ofExample 1 illustrates the storage stability of the conditioning shampoocompositions; and the cleansing efficiency and conditioning propertiesimparted by a composition of the present invention. The weightpercentage listed in each of the following examples represent the actualactive amount of each ingredient present in the conditioning shampoocomposition.

    ______________________________________                                        EXAMPLE 1                                                                                                % by weight                                                                   (active                                            Ingredient                 basis)                                             ______________________________________                                        1      Dimethyl Stearamidopropyl [(2-                                                                    0.375                                                     Pyrrolidonyl)methyl]ammonium                                                  Chloride.sup.1)                                                        2      Glycerin            3.000                                              3      Dimethicone.sup.2)  4.125                                              4      Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.sup.3)                                                                      3.333                                              5      Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate.sup.4)                                                            4.000                                              6      Crosslinked MVE/VA Copolymer.sup.5)                                                               0.400                                              7      Sodium Hydroxide.sup.6)                                                                           0.220                                              8      Citric Acid         0.430                                              9      Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate.sup.7)                                                                    10.500                                             10     Cocamide DEA        3.000                                              11     Fragrance           0.400                                              12     Ammonium Xylene Sulfonate.sup.8)                                                                  0.880                                              13     Preservatives       0.150                                              14     Dye                 0.176                                              15     Deionized Water     q.s.                                               ______________________________________                                         .sup.1) Hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, SURFADONE QSP, from ISP     Chemicals Corporation, Wayne, N.J., (100% active);                            .sup.2) Added as a blend of 67% polydimethylsiloxane (350 cs) fluid and       33% silicone gum (100% active);                                               .sup.3) Added as a 30% aqueous solution;                                      .sup.4) Added as a 40% aqueous solution;                                      .sup.5) Suspending agent, STABILIZE ™ 06, from ISP Chemicals Corp.,        Wayne, NJ., (100% active);                                                    .sup.6) Added as a 50% aqueous solution;                                      .sup.7) Added as a 40% aqueous solution; and                                  .sup.8) Added as a 40% aqueous solution.                                 

The composition of Example 1 was prepared by the above-described methodwherein composition ingredients 1 and 2 were blended to provide anemulsifying composition. The ingredient 3 was added to the emulsifyingcomposition to provide a gel having a viscosity of about 14,000 cps.Composition ingredients 4 through 7 and a portion of the deionized waterwere added in the listed order to a separate vessel. The crosslinkedMVE/VA copolymer was solubilized by the water and sodium hydroxide. Thenthe gel including composition ingredients 1 through 3 was added to theaqueous solution including composition ingredients 4 through 7. Afterstirring the mixture until homogeneous, the remaining compositioningredients 9 through 14 were added in the listed order to provide thecomposition of Example 1.

The composition of Example 1 is an emulsified composition having aviscosity of about 6,500 cps, a pH of about 5.5, and includes disperseddroplets of dimethicone having a diameter of about 10μ to about 40μ. Thecomposition of Example 1 demonstrated excellent storage stability; andexhibited no phase separation after storage at about 25° C. for anextended time. In contrast, compositions wherein the ingredients 1through 3 were added to the composition individually, or whereiningredients 1 and 2 were blended, then the resulting mixture added tothe composition followed by the addition of ingredient 3, were unstable.These compositions underwent phase separation about 2 days afterpreparation. Accordingly, it was demonstrated that first forming the gelimparts stability to the composition, and therefore is an important stepin preparing a composition of the present invention.

In accordance with an important feature of the present invention, it hasbeen found that the viscosity of the gel including the polyol, thehydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound and the water-insolubleconditioning agent varies with the amount of the components present inthe gel. In turn, gel viscosity is related to the diameter of thedroplets of dispersed water-insoluble conditioning agent present in thegel. Finally, the diameter of the dispersed droplets is directly relatedto the ability of the droplets to deposit on the hair and the ability ofthe conditioning shampoo to resist phase separation.

In particular, a series of gels, each including the compound depicted instructural formula (II) as the hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound;glycerin as the polyol; and a blend of silicone compounds (33% siliconegum/67% dimethicone fluid having a viscosity of 350 centistokes as thewater-insoluble conditioning agent), was prepared. In each gel, theamount of hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound was maintained at 10percent by weight. The amount of water-insoluble conditioning agent wasvaried from about 35% to about 65% by weight. A sufficient amount ofpolyol was added to make a 100 weight percent gel. The graph of FIG. 1shows that the viscosity of the gel, in centipoises (cps), increasesfrom about 10,000 cps to about 60,000 cps as the amount of siliconecompound in the gel increases. This data has been interpreted as showingthat as the amount of water-insoluble conditioning agent in the gelincreases the particle size of the dispersed water-insolubleconditioning agent decreases.

To further show that the particle size of the water-insolubleconditioning agent is related to the viscosity of the gel, the gelsprepared above for FIG. 1 were measured for viscosity by means of usinga Brookfield viscometer using the D T-spindle at 25° C. by methods wellknown to those skilled in the art. In addition, the particle size of thedispersed water-insoluble conditioning agent was determined with eithera Brinkmann Particle Size Analyzer or the Brookhaven BI-90, forparticles sizes greater or less than one micron, respectively, bymethods well-known to those skilled in the art. FIG. 2 is a plot ofparticle size, in microns, vs. gel viscosity, and shows that theparticle size is inversely proportional to the viscosity of the gel.Accordingly, from FIGS. 1 and 2, it is observed that for a givenconcentration of hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, a smallerparticle size is achieved by including increasing amount of thewater-insoluble conditioning compound.

The compositions of Examples 2 through 7 were prepared to demonstratethe effect of particle size of the water-insoluble conditioning agent inthe composition on deposition of the conditioning agent on shampooedhair. In each example, the water-insoluble conditioning agent was asilicone blend including 33% of silicone gum and 67% dimethicone fluidhaving a viscosity of 350 centistokes. The compositions of Examples 2through 7 were prepared in an identical manner to the composition ofExample 1.

    ______________________________________                                        Ingredient                                                                              EX.    EX.    EX.  EX.  EX.                                         (% by weight)                                                                           2      3      4    5    6    EX. 7.sup.9)                                                                        EX. 8.sup.9)                     ______________________________________                                        Dimethyl  0.50   0.25   0.25 0.325                                                                              0.50 0.375 --                               Stearamido-                                                                   propyl[(2-                                                                    Pyrrolidonyl)                                                                 methyl]                                                                       Ammonium                                                                      Chloride.sup.1)                                                               Linoleamido-                                                                            --     --     --   --   --   --    0.375                            propyl                                                                        PG-dimonium                                                                   Chloride                                                                      Phosphate.sup.2)                                                              Glycerin  1.25   1.00   2.00 3.00 4.00 3.00  3.00                             Dimethicone.sup.3)                                                                      3.25   3.75   2.75 4.175                                                                              5.50 4.125 4.125                            Magnesium 5.35   --     --   --   --   --    --                               Lauryl                                                                        Sulfate.sup.4)                                                                Ammonium  --     8.00   8.00 8.00 8.00 10.50 10.50                            Lauryl                                                                        Sulfate.sup.5)                                                                Sodium    --     --     --   --   --   --    6.00                             Lauryl                                                                        Sulfate.sup.4)                                                                Disodium  7.50   4.00   4.00 4.00 4.00 --    --                               Laureth                                                                       Sulfo-                                                                        succinate.sup.6)                                                              Hydroxypropyl                                                                           0.70   --     --   --   --   0.40  0.35                             Methyl                                                                        Cellulose.sup.7)                                                              Crosslinked                                                                             --     0.30   0.30 0.30 0.30 0.40  0.40                             MVE/VA                                                                        Copolymer.sup.6)                                                              Cocamide DEA                                                                            4.00   4.00   4.00 4.00 4.00 --    3.00                             Deionized q.s.   q.s.   q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.  q.s.                             Water                                                                         ______________________________________                                         .sup.1) Hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, SURFADONE QSP, from ISP     Chemicals Corp., Wayne, NJ., (100% active);                                   .sup.2) Hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound, PHOSPHOLIPID EFA, from      Mona Industries, Paterson, NJ., (30% active);                                 .sup.3) Added as a blend of 67% polydimethylsiloxane (350 cs) fluid and       33% silicone gum (100% active);                                               .sup.4) Added as a 30% aqueous solution;                                      .sup.5) Added as a 30% aqueous solution, STANDAPOL MG, Henkel Corp.,          Ambler, PA.                                                                   .sup.6) Added as a 40% aqueous solution, MACKANATE EL, McIntyre Chemical      Co., Chicago, IL.                                                             .sup.7) METHOCEL 40101, Dow Chemical Co., Midland, MI.                        .sup.8) STABILEZE ™ 06, from ISP Chemical Corp., Wayne, NJ., (100%         active); and                                                                  .sup.9) The composition also includes 0.25% sodium hydroxide and 0.70%        citric acid.                                                             

The compositions of Examples 2-6, each including a hydrophilicquaternary compound having the general structural formula (I), wereemulsified liquids having a relatively low viscosity. The compositionsdemonstrated excellent storage stability, exhibiting no phase separationor ingredient precipitation after storage at about 25° C. for about 1year. The composition of Example 7, absent an alkanolamide, has aviscosity at room temperature of about 7380 cps (centipoises), asmeasured on a Brookfield viscometer with a RV4 spindle at 20 rpm. Thecomposition of Example 8, including a quaternized phosphate ester ofgeneral structural formula (III) as the hydrophilic quaternary ammoniumcompound, has a viscosity at room temperature of about 3030 cps asmeasured on a Brookfield viscometer with a RV4 spindle at 20 RPM. Thecompositions of Examples 2-6, when applied to a bleached, waved tress ofhuman hair, demonstrated excellent foaming properties and impartedexcellent detangling, wet combing and dry combing properties to the hairtress if the particle size of the emulsified silicone droplets aresufficiently large.

In particular, the compositions of Examples 2 through 6 were tested foran ability to deposit a water-insoluble conditioning agent on hairduring shampooing. The compositions of Examples 2-6 were prepared andapplied to normal brown tresses of hair. The treated hair then wastested by Diffuse Reflectance Infrared Fourier Transform Spectroscopy(DRIFTS) to determine the relative amount of water-insolubleconditioning agent deposited on individual tresses, each shampooed witha composition of Examples 2 through 6. After a hair tress was shampooedwith a composition of Examples 2-6, the ratio of the area of thesilicon-methyl (SiMe) infrared peak at 1260 cm⁻¹ to the area of theAmide III infrared peak of hair keratin at 1240 cm⁻¹, and used as theinternal standard, was calculated from the following equation for eachhair tress using the second derivative spectrum. These ratios, orsilicone indexes, are correlated to ppm (parts per million) silicondeposited on tresses, as determined by atomic absorption spectroscopy,with a linear correlation from 40 ppm to 170 ppm silicon. In addition,the particle size of the silicone droplets present in the ##EQU1##composition of each Example was determined using the Brookhaven BI-90 orBrinkman Particle Size Analyzer instrument.

The data was graphed in FIG. 3. Specifically, the particle size and thesilicone index for each composition was graphed on the same bar graph.FIG. 3 shows that for the composition of Example 3, including 5% byweight of the gel, and having a particle size of silicone droplets lessthan about 1μ, essentially none of the silicone conditioning agent wasdeposited on the hair. It is theorized that such small silicone dropletsare rinsed from the hair during shampooing because the droplets are toosmall to resist rinsing from the hair.

In contrast, the compositions of Examples 3 through 5, each alsoincluding 5% by weight of the gel, but having a silicone particle sizein excess of about 10μ, sufficiently deposited on the hair asdemonstrated in a silicone index of from about 0.25 to about 0.7.Accordingly, these larger-sized silicone particles resisted rinsing fromthe hair during shampooing and effectively deposited on the hair.Therefore, to impart sufficient conditioning properties to shampooedhair, the silicone droplets should average at least about 5μ indiameter, and preferably about 10μ in diameter.

The composition of Example 6 includes 10% by weight of the compositionof gel, and includes the silicone as droplets having a particle size ofabout 25 microns. Hair shampooed with this composition exhibited agreater silicone deposition, e.g., a silicone index of about 1.0,thereby showing that deposition also is related to the amount ofsilicone in the composition, once the silicone particles are present ina threshold particle size of about 5μ.

The composition of Example 1 was compared to a leading present-daycommercial hair shampoo-conditioner, PERT PLUS, available from Proctorand Gamble Co., Cincinnati, Ohio, to determine the relative ability of acomposition of the present invention to effectively cleanse the hair andto simultaneously impart hair conditioning properties to the hair duringshampooing. The comparative test between the composition of Example 1and PERT PLUS demonstrated that the composition of Example 1 performedessentially equal to PERT PLUS, a hair shampoo-conditioner compositionrecognized in the industry as an effective shampoo having the ability toimpart exceptional hair conditioning properties to hair.

In particular, to show that a composition of the present inventioneffectively cleanses the hair and imparts superior hair conditioningproperties to hair, the composition of Example 1 was compared to thecommercially-available PERT PLUS shampoo-conditioner in a salon test.Specifically, the composition of Example 1 was tested for its ability tocleanse the hair and to impart hair conditioning properties to theshampooed hair. It should be understood that in the subjective salontest, a composition that imparts hair conditioning properties duringshampooing equivalent to the conditioning properties imparted by PERTPLUS is considered a premium conditioner because PERT PLUS is recognizedin the art as a superior shampoo-conditioner product.

In a standard salon test, the composition of interest is applied to onehalf of a head of hair, and the composition used for comparison, i.e.,PERT PLUS, is applied to the other half of the same head of hair. Aftershampooing and rinsing, each side of hair is judged for a variety ofhair conditioning properties by a trained judge in a subjective rankingof 1 unit (worst) to 5 units (best). Then, the ratings of the judges foreach hair conditioning property are averaged, and a difference in ratingone half of the hair compared to the other half of the hair of at least0.3 units is considered a significant difference for that particularhair conditioning property. The trained judges rate the shampoo and theshampooed hair for such shampooing and hair conditioning properties asease of application, foam volume, foaming speed, detangling, dryingdifficulty, fragrance, ease of rinsing, wet feel, wet comb, residue, drycombing, dry feel, coating, flakes/dust, static manageability, conditionof ends, sheen/luster, body, effect of hair color, irritation andoverall condition.

Accordingly, it was found that, in a salon comparative test between thecomposition of Example 1 and PERT PLUS shampoo-conditioner, thecomposition of Example 1 performed essentially equal to PERT PLUS ineach of the tested properties, including wet stage detangling, wet stagecombing, wet stage, feel, wet stage coating, dry stage combing, drystage feel, dry stage coating and dry stage sheen. The salon testresults are illustrated in the bar graphs of FIG. 4 and FIG. 5, whereinthe composition of Example 1 performed essentially equal to PERT PLUS,i.e., tested within 0.3 units.

Therefore, considering the excellent hair-conditioning propertiesimparted to the hair by PERT PLUS during shampooing, it is bothsurprising and unexpected for a composition of the present invention toimpart essentially identical hair conditioning properties to hair duringshampooing as the commercial composition. Accordingly, the method andcomposition of the present invention cleanse the hair and impart a levelof physical and cosmetic conditioning properties to hair duringshampooing that usually is observed only by treating the hairsequentially, first with a hair shampoo composition, then with a hairconditioning composition. It is both surprising and unexpected for acomposition of the present invention to demonstrate such an excellentstorage stability, and yet be able to effectively cleanse the hair andto sufficiently deposit the conditioning compounds on the hair to impartsuch a high degree of conditioning to the shampooed hair.

To even further demonstrate the ability of a composition of the presentinvention to simultaneously cleanse and condition hair, the conditioningshampoo composition of Example 1 was compared to PERT PLUS for anability to impart conditioning properties to the hair. The compositionsof Example 1 and PERT PLUS each were applied to a tress of hair, and theshampooed hair was examined by twelve expert panelists to rate theconditioning properties to the hair by the conditioning shampoocompositions. The rating scale is continuous from 0 (worst) to 10(best), and the scale represents the ability of a composition to impartconditioning properties to hair.

From the bar graphs in FIG. 6, it is shown that the composition ofExample 1 imparted the dry phase conditioning attributes of drydetangling, dry combing, dry feel and dry coating essentially equal toPERT PLUS. FIG. 7 includes bar graphs showing that the composition ofExample 1 also imparts the wet stage conditioning properties of wetdetangling, wet combing, wet feel and wet coating essentially equal toPERT PLUS.

The composition of Example 1 also was compared to PERT PLUS for foamgenerating properties. The bar graphs presented in FIG. 8 comparefoaming characteristics exhibited by the composition of Example 1 andexhibited by PERT PLUS. Hair tresses were shampooed with the compositionof Example a or with PERT PLUS. Then, a group of twelve trainedpanelists, in a blind test, rated the shampooed tresses for specificfoaming properties on a continuous scale of 0 (worst) to 10 (best). Thepanelists rated hair shampooed with the composition of Example 1essentially equal to PERT PLUS for the foaming properties of speed offoaming, foam volume, bubble size and rinseability, as illustrated inFIG. 8. Therefore, in general, hair shampooed with a composition of thepresent invention exhibits esthetic properties that are essentiallyequal to the esthetic properties exhibited by PERT PLUS. Such estheticproperties are especially important for consumer acceptance because aconsumer equates a copious, stable foam with good hair cleansingefficiency.

In addition to the above features, the method and composition of thepresent invention provide the further benefits of not leaving the hairtacky or sticky; imparting body and shine to shampooed hair; not leavingthe hair with an oily or greasy appearance; not forming a crust andtherefore providing combability; and providing manageable and styleablehair having body. After shampooing the hair feels natural and thickened,has body, is soft, shiny, manageable, and combable. The composition ofthe present invention also conditions the scalp as it conditions thehair.

Obviously, many modifications and variations of the invention ashereinbefore set forth can be made without departing from the spirit andscope thereof and therefore only such limitations should be imposed asare indicated by the appended claims.

What is claimed is:
 1. A conditioning shampoo composition comprising:(a)about 5% to about 30% by weight of an anionic cleansing surfactant; (b)about 0.1% to about 8% by weight of a water-insoluble conditioningagent; (c) about 0.25% to about 15.5% by weight of an emulsifyingcomposition comprising:(i) a polyhydric compound, and (ii) a hydrophilicquaternary ammonium compound, having the structure ##STR6## wherein R₁is an alkyl group including about 5 to about 21 carbon atoms; R₂ ishydrogen or methyl; R₃ and R₄, independently, are methyl, ethyl, orbenzyl; R₅ is methyl, ethyl, benzyl, acetamido or(2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl; n is a numeral from one to about 10; and X is ananion selected from the group consisting of chloride, bromide,ethosulfate, methosulfate, acetate, nitrate, tosylate, phosphate, andcombinations thereof, wherein the polyhydric compound is present in anamount of about 0.2% to about 15% by weight of the total composition,and the hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound is present in an amountof about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight of the total composition; (d)about 0.1% to about 1% by weight of a suspending agent; and (e) asuitable carrier comprising water.
 2. The composition of claim 1 whereinthe anionic cleansing surfactant is present in an amount of about 70% toabout 20% by weight of the composition.
 3. The composition of claim 1wherein the water-insoluble conditioning agent is present in an amountof about 1% to about 6% by weight of the composition.
 4. The compositionof claim 1 wherein the water-insoluble conditioning agent is selectedfrom the group consisting of a silicone conditioning compound, ahydrocarbon conditioning compound, a fatty ester, a fatty alcohol, andcombinations thereof, wherein the fatty alcohol or fatty ester includesa fatty alkyl group having about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.
 5. Thecomposition of claim 4 wherein the silicone conditioning compound is anonvolatile silicone conditioning compound having a viscosity of atleast 5 centistokes, and is selected from the group consisting of apolyalkyl siloxane, a polyaryl siloxane, a polyalkylaryl siloxane, andcombinations thereof.
 6. The composition of claim 4 wherein the siliconeconditioning compound is a volatile silicone conditioning compoundhaving a boiling point of about 150° C. to about 250° C.
 7. Thecomposition of claim 4 wherein the hydrocarbon conditioning compound isa volatile hydrocarbon conditioning compound including about 10 to about26 carbon atoms.
 8. The composition of claim 1 wherein the polyhydriccompound is a glycol, a triol, a polyol, or a combination thereof. 9.The composition of claim 1 wherein the polyhydric compound is selectedfrom the group consisting of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butyleneglycol, isobutylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol,triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, glycerol,diglycerol, fructose, glucose, neopentyl glycol, pentaerythritol,pinacol, cyclopentanediol, cyclohexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol,hydroxystearyl methylglucamine, inositol, maltitol, mannitol, methylgluceth-10, methyl gluceth-20, sorbitol, sorbeth-20, sucrose, xylitol, apolyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight up to about 500,a polypropylene glycol having an average molecular weight up to about500, a polyethylene-polypropylene glycol having an average molecularweight up to about 500, and combinations thereof.
 10. The composition ofclaim 1 wherein the hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound is presentin an amount of about 0.1% to about 0.4% by weight of the totalcomposition.
 11. The composition of claim 1 wherein the hydrophilicquaternary ammonium compound is selected from the group consisting ofricinoleamidopropyl trimonium chloride, ricinoleamido trimoniumethylsulfate, hydroxy stearamidopropyl trimonium methylsulfate, hydroxystearamidopropyl trimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyl ethyldimoniumethosulfate, dimethyl stearamidopropyl[(2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl]ammoniumchloride, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-43, isostearamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, and combinations thereof.
 12. The compositionof claim 1 wherein the suspending agent is present at about 0.2% toabout 0.8% by weight of the composition.
 13. The composition of claim 1wherein the suspending agent is selected from the group consisting ofmethylcellulose, hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,hydroxyethylcellulose, a primary amine including a fatty alkyl moietyhaving at least 16 carbon atoms, a secondary amine including two fattyalkyl moieties each having at least 12 carbon atoms, di(hydrogenatedtallow) phthalic acid amide, a crosslinked maleic anhydride-methyl vinylether copolymer, and combinations thereof.
 14. The composition of claim1 further comprising 0% to about 5% by weight of an amphotericsurfactant, 0% to about 5% by weight of a nonionic surfactant, or acombination thereof.
 15. The composition of claim 14 wherein theamphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of abetaine, a hydroxypropylsultaine, an amine oxide, and combinationsthereof.
 16. The composition of claim 14 wherein the nonionic surfactantis selected from the group consisting of an ester of a polyol, an esterof a sugar, a fatty acid alkanolamide, a polyethylene glycol, anethoxylated fatty alcohol, a propoxylated fatty alcohol, a condensationproduct of ethylene oxide and a long chain amide, and combinationsthereof.
 17. The composition of claim 16 wherein the nonionic surfactantis a fatty alkanolamide selected from the group consisting of cocamideMEA, cocamide DEA, soyamide DEA, lauramide DEA, oleamide MIPA,stearamide MEA, myristamide MEA, lauramide MEA, capramide DEA,ricinoleamide DEA, myristamide DEA, stearamide DEA, oleylamide DEA,tallowamide DEA, lauramide MIPA, tallowamide MEA, isostearamide DEA,isostearamide MEA, and combinations thereof.
 18. A conditioning shampoocomposition comprising:(a) about 5% to about 30% by weight of an anioniccleansing surfactant; (b) about 0.1% to about 8% by weight of awater-insoluble conditioning agent selected from the group consisting ofa nonvolatile silicone having a viscosity of at least 5 centistokes, avolatile silicone having a boiling point of about 150° C. to about 250°C., a volatile hydrocarbon including about 10 to about 26 carbon atoms,and combinations thereof; (c) about 0.2% to about 15% by weight of apolyhydric compound selected from the group consisting of glycerol,1,2,6-hexanetriol, pentaerythritol, inositol, mannitol, sorbitol, andcombinations thereof; (d) about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight of ahydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound having the structure ##STR7##wherein R₁ is an alkyl group including about 5 to about 21 carbon atoms;R₂ is hydrogen or methyl; R₃ and R₄ are, independently, methyl, ethyl,or benzyl; R₅ is methyl, ethyl, benzyl, acetamido or (2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl; n is a numeral from one to about 10; and X is an anion selectedfrom the group consisting of chloride, bromide, ethosulfate,methosulfate, acetate, nitrate, tosylate, phosphate, and combinationsthereof (e) about 0.1% to about 1% by weight of a suspending agentselected from the group consisting of methocel, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, di(hydrogenated tallow) phthalic acid amide, acrosslinked maleic anhydride-methyl vinyl ether copolymer, a primaryamine including a fatty alkyl moiety having at least 16 carbon atoms, asecondary amine including two fatty alkyl moieties each having at leasttwelve carbon atoms, and combinations thereof; and (f) a suitablecarrier comprising water.
 19. The composition of claim 18 furthercomprising:(g) 0% to about 5% by weight of a nonionic alkanolamideselected from the group consisting of cocamide MEA, cocamide DEA,soyamide DEA, lauramide DEA, oleamide MIPA, stearamide MEA, myristamideMEA, lauramide MEA, capramide DEA, ricinoleamide DEA, myristamide DEA,stearamide DEA, oleylamide DEA, tallowamide DEA, lauramide MIPA,tallowamide MEA, isostearamide DEA, isostearamide MEA, and combinationsthereof.
 20. The composition of claim 18 further comprising:(h) 0% toabout 5% by weight of an amphoteric surfactant selected from the groupconsisting of cocamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, oleylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, tallowamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, dihydroxyethyltallow glycinate, and combinations thereof.
 21. The composition of claim18 wherein the hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound is selected fromthe group consisting of dimethylstearamidopropyl[(2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl]ammonium chloride,ricinoleamidopropyl trimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyl trimoniumethylsulfate, hydroxy stearamidopropyl trimonium methylsulfate, hydroxystearamidopropyl trimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyl ethyldimoniumethosulfate, isostearamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, andcombinations thereof.
 22. A method of treating hair to simultaneouslycleanse the hair and impart conditioning properties to the haircomprising contacting the hair with a composition comprising:(a) about5% to about 30% by weight of an anionic cleansing surfactant; (b) about0.1% to about 8% by weight of a water-insoluble conditioning agent; (c)about 0.25% to about 15.5% by weight of an emulsifying compositioncomprising:(i) a polyhydric compound, and (ii) a hydrophilic quaternaryammonium compound, having the structure ##STR8## wherein R₁ is an alkylgroup including about 5 to about 21 carbon atoms; R₂ is hydrogen ormethyl; R₃ and R₄, independently, are methyl, ethyl, or benzyl; R₅ ismethyl, ethyl, benzyl, acetamido or (2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl; n is anumeral from one to about 10; and X is an anion selected from the groupconsisting of chloride, bromide, ethosulfate, methosulfate, acetate,nitrate, tosylate, phosphate, and combinations thereof wherein thepolyhydric compound is present in an amount of about 0.2% to about 15%by weight of the total composition, and the hydrophilic quaternaryammonium compound is present in an amount of about 0.05% to about 0.5%by weight of the total composition; (d) about 0.1% to about 1% by weightof a suspending agent; and (e) a suitable carrier comprising water. 23.The method of claim 22 wherein the water-insoluble conditioning agent ispresent in an amount of about 1% to about 6% by weight of thecomposition.
 24. The method of claim 22 wherein the water-insolubleconditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of a siliconeconditioning compound, a hydrocarbon conditioning compound, a fattyester, a fatty alcohol, and combinations thereof, wherein the fattyalcohol or fatty ester includes a fatty alkyl group having about 8 toabout 22 carbon atoms.
 25. The method of claim 22 wherein the polyhydriccompound is a glycol, a triol, a polyol, or a combination thereof. 26.The method of claim 22 wherein the hydrophilic quaternary ammoniumcompound is selected from the group consisting of ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamido trimonium ethylsulfate, hydroxystearamidopropyl trimonium methylsulfate, hydroxy stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate,dimethyl stearamidopropyl[(2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl]ammonium chloride,Quaternium-33, Quaternium-43, isostearamidopropyl ethyldimoniumethosulfate, and combinations thereof.
 27. The method of claim 22wherein the suspending agent is selected from the group consisting ofmethylcellulose, hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, hydroxylpropylcellulose,hydroxylpropyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,hydroxyethylcellulose, a primary amine including a fatty alkyl moietyhaving at least 16 carbon atoms, a secondary amine including two fattyalkyl moieties each having at least 12 carbon atoms, di(hydrogenatedtallow)phthalic acid amide, a crosslinked maleic anhydride-methyl vinylether copolymer, and combinations thereof.
 28. The method of claim 22wherein the composition further comprises 0% to about 5% by weight of anamphoteric surfactant, 0% to about 5% by weight of a nonionicsurfactant, or a combination thereof.
 29. The method of claim 28 whereinthe amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of abetaine, a hydroxypropylsultaine, an amine oxide, and combinationsthereof.
 30. The method of claim 28 wherein the nonionic surfactant isselected from the group consisting of an ester of a polyol, an ester ofa sugar, a fatty acid alkanolamide, a polyethylene glycol, anethoxylated fatty alcohol, a propoxylated fatty alcohol, a condensationproduct of ethylene oxide and a long chain amide, and combinationsthereof.
 31. A method of treating hair to simultaneously cleanse thehair and impart conditioning properties to the hair comprisingcontacting the hair with a composition comprising:(a) about 5% to about30% by weight of an anionic cleansing surfactant; (b) about 0.1% toabout 8% by weight of a water-insoluble conditioning agent selected formthe group consisting of a nonvolatile silicone having a viscosity of atleast 5 centistokes, a volatile silicone having a boiling point of about150° C. to about 250° C., a volatile hydrocarbon including about 10 toabout 26 carbon atoms, and combinations thereof; (c) about 0.2% to about15% by weight of a polyhydric compound selected from the groupconsisting of glycerol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, pentaerylthritol, inositol,mannitol, sorbitol, and combinations thereof; (d) about 0.05% to about0.5% by weight of a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound having thestructure ##STR9## wherein R₁ is an alkyl group including about 5 toabout 21 carbon atoms; R₂ is hydrogen or methyl; R₃ and R₄ are,independently, methyl, ethyl, or benzyl; R₅ is methyl, ethyl, benzyl,acetamido or (2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl; n is a numeral from one to about10; and X is an anion selected from the group consisting of chloride,bromide, ethosulfate, methosulfate, acetate, nitrate, tosylate,phosphate, and combinations thereof; (e) about 0.1% to about 1% byweight of a suspending agent selected from the group consisting ofmethocel, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, di(hydrogenated tallow)phthalic acid amide, a crosslinked maleic anhydride-methyl vinyl ethercopolymer, a primary amine including a fatty alkyl moiety having atleast 16 carbon atoms, a secondary amine including two fatty alkylmoieties each having at least twelve carbon atoms, and combinationsthereof; and (f) a suitable carrier comprising water.
 32. The method ofclaim 31 wherein the hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound isselected from the group consisting of dimethyl stearamidopropyl[(2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl]ammonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyl trimoniumchloride, ricinoleamidopropyl trimonium ethylsulfate, hydroxystearamidopropyl trimonium methylsulfate, hydroxyl stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate,isostearamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, and combinations thereof.33. A conditioning shampoo composition comprising:(a) about 5% to about30% by weight of an anionic cleansing surfactant selected from the groupconsisting of an alkali metal salt, an ammonium salt, an alkylammoniumsalt or a hydroxyalkylammonium salt, wherein the alkyl group includesfrom one to about three carbon atoms, of an alkyl sulfate, an alkylether sulfate, and combinations thereof; (b) about 0.1% to about 8% byweight of a water-insoluble conditioning agent selected from the groupconsisting of a nonvolatile silicone having a viscosity of at least 5centistokes, a volatile silicone having a boiling point of about 150° C.to about 250° C., a volatile hydrocarbon including about 10 to about 26carbon atoms, and combinations thereof; (c) about 0.25% to about 15.5%by weight of an emulsifying composition comprising:(i) glycerol, and(ii) a hydrophilic quaternary ammonium compound selected from the groupconsisting of dimethyl stearamidopropyl[(2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl]ammoniumchloride, ricinoleamidopropyl trimonium chloride, and combinationsthereof, wherein the glycerol is present in an amount of about 0.2% toabout 15% by weight of the total composition, and the hydrophilicquaternary ammonium compound is present in amount of about 0.05% toabout 0.5% by weight of the total composition; (d) about 0.1% to about1% by weight of a suspending agent selected from the group consisting ofmethocel, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, di(hydrogenated tallow)phthalic acid amide, a crosslinked maleic anhydride-methyl vinyl ethercopolymer, a primary amine including a fatty alkyl moiety of at least 16carbon atoms, a secondary amine including two fatty alkyl moieties eachhaving at least 12 carbon atoms, and combinations thereof; and (e) asuitable carrier comprising water.
 34. A method of treating hair tosimultaneously cleanse the hair and impart conditioning properties tothe hair comprising contacting the hair with a compositioncomprising:(a) about 5% to about 30% by weight of an anionic cleansingsurfactant selected from the group consisting of an alkali metal salt,an ammonium salt, an alkylammonium salt or a hydroxyalkylammonium salt,wherein the alkyl group includes from one to about three carbon atoms,of an alkyl sulfate, an alkyl ether sulfate, and combinations thereof;(b) about 0.1% to about 8% by weight of a water-insoluble conditioningagent selected from the group consisting of a nonvolatile siliconehaving a viscosity of at least 5 centistokes, a volatile silicone havinga boiling point of about 150° C. to about 250° C., a volatilehydrocarbon including about 10 to about 26 carbon atoms, andcombinations thereof; (c) about 0.25% to about 15.5% by weight of anemulsifying composition comprising:(i) glycerol, and (ii) a hydrophilicquaternary ammonium compound selected from the group consisting ofdimethyl stearamidopropyl[(2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl]ammonium chloride,ricinoleamidopropyl trimonium chloride, and combinations thereof,wherein the glycerol is present in an amount of about 0.2% to about 15%by weight of the total composition, and the hydrophilic quaternaryammonium compound is present in amount of about 0.05% to about 0.5% byweight of the total composition; (d) about 0.1% to about 1% by weight ofa suspending agent selected from the group consisting of methocel,hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, di(hydrogenated tallow) phthalic acidamide, a crosslinked maleic anhydride-methyl vinyl ether copolymer, aprimary amine including a fatty alkyl moiety of at least 16 carbonatoms, a secondary amine including two fatty alkyl moieties each havingat least 12 carbon atoms, and combinations thereof; and (e) a suitablecarrier comprising water.